Greatest Hits: my top 10 SEA photos

In remembrance of the year that has gone by since I’ve started my blog, and the approximate 12 months since I visited Southeast Asia, I wanted to take a trip down memory lane and post my top 10 photos (as voted on by ME) from my travels in SEA, along with a little backstory on each one. All photos were shot on a Canon Powershot SX20 IS.

Without further ado, my personal top 10:

20130607-095211.jpg
This photo was taken on a tiny island (if you could even call it that) in the straights of Malacca, just off the coast of Ao Nang, southern Thailand. My friends and I had taken a deep water soloing trip and this was our lunch stop in between climbs. Our guide packed us fried rice and we took our lunch on the outside of a cave with this view of our boat in front of us.

20130607-102925.jpg
Taken while touring the grand palace in Bangkok, this row row of “guardians” lined the entire perimeter of the temple housing the Emerald Buddha. I can remember the heat on this day being unbearable amidst all the concrete of the royal complex.

20130607-103349.jpg
A spectacular post-sunset shot on Koh Phi Phi, while I was sitting on the porch of my hillside bungalow. At the rooftop bar in the bottom of the shot you can see they were projecting a replay of the nearby filmed movie, “The Beach”.

20130608-085959.jpg
The Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Walking into the buildings takes you through a high end shopping mall, including a movie theatre and food court. Outside is a wonderfully clean public park and gardens. After touring the park, my friends and I settled in for back to back movies at the theatre. The movies were one of my most memorable experiences due to the cheap tickets, spotless theatre and absence of previews before the show.

20130608-091640.jpg
At sunset, touring the massive complex of Wat Phra Dhammakaya, just north of Bangkok. These statues were situated at the entrance of the massive space used for huge public meditations. The “arena” was larger than any professional sports complex I’ve ever seen, housing over 100,000 people in group meditation. At the center of the concrete complex sits a 5 ton silver Buddha encased by a golden dome covered in 100,000 tiny golden Buddha statues.

20130608-091809.jpg
Another sunset, this time within the ruins of Angkor Wat archeological park, sitting atop the elephant temple of Phnom Bakheng, the very first temple-mountain build in Angkor. The temple symbolizes the mythical Mount Meru in the Hindi religion. This is by far the best spot to take in the sunset in the park, but visitors beware, if you don’t get there early, you will be stuck at the bottom waiting in the queue.

20130608-092317.jpg
Looking up at my dive partner Dave Ho while training off the coast of Koh Tao for our Advanced certifications. Dave was one awesome dude, an Asian-American, Massachusetts native, who was currently taking a vacay in Thailand from his job in China.

20130608-092552.jpg
Inside the compound of the main Angkor Wat temple, just after sunrise. These structures were just massive in person, hard to imagine a monk wandering the grounds hundreds of years ago, just as I was that day. In the shot you can see Kelvin and Sophie, my two traveling buddies I met during the mind bending border crossing into Cambodia. Without them, I don’t think I would have made it to Angkor, nor would I have had near as much fun.

20130608-092737.jpg
Looking down on the isolated paradise of Railay Beach in southern Thailand. We had to to scale a rocky, muddy, rooty precipice to get to this unofficial overlook. Railay beach can only be accessed by boat and it is home to a huge community of rock climbers and monkeys, however I was more surprised to find out that Railay is a haven for both cannabis enthusiasts and the LBGT community.

20130608-092943.jpg
Just another long tail boat, ferrying passengers from Ao Nang to Railay for less than $5, with the signature southwestern Thai backdrop. Typical Thai ferryman smoking a cigarette while operating a makeshift auto-engine turned prop motor.

My SEA Top 10 Tips

Ive spent almost 2 months in Southeast Asia and I have learned a great deal about living and traveling in this area. Therefore, I’ve decided to compile my top 10 SEA tips and observations for those considering a visit, in order for you to survive and thrive:

1. Pack light: No more than a carryon bag and you can even make it with just a large backpack. Anything and everything in SEA is cheap to purchase and you can get whatever you need as you realize you need it. This includes clothes, shoes, toiletries, electronics and medicines. I do not recommend that you bring nice/expensive sandals or sunglasses as you will lose them, i guarantee it. I have already gone through at least 4 pairs of flip-flops and 4 sunglasses, the good thing is that they are insanely cheap to replace. As for your one bag of choice, I don’t recommend the typical backcountry backpack, you are immediately labeled as a tourist/backpacker and open yourself up to being taken advantage of by local scammers because you stick out like a sore thumb. Also, you get more than one sideways look when walking through nice parts of town or checking into the occasional 4 star hotel for a respite from camping or hostel life. I chose the bag made by Rick Steves. The bag is designed to the maximum dimensions of an airplane overhead compartment and while it may appear to be just a square shaped piece of luggage it does have hideable backpack straps and a waist strap that can be configured in a variety of ways for backpacking. As for handbags or a day-pack, you can get those for cheap in any mall or night market, and ladies you know you will want a souvenir handbag at some point anyway, so why bring one from home? While we’re on the subject of shoulder bags, the, “Hangover II”, movie did get one thing right; When Thai men (like Leslie Chow) are out and about or traveling, they do carry man purses, however they are probably not filled with lots of cash or skittles. For your clothes, I say; 1 pants, 1 shorts, 1 swimwear, 1 collared shirt, 3 t-shirts, low profile running shoes, and something like boat-shoes that can be worn out to dinner or to the beach. Remember: it’s hot and humid, so cotton is the devil, if you are wearing cotton and get wet or sweaty, you will stay that way. Invest in some dri-fit. Oh, and protect your electronic gadgetry with some high quality cases, I’ve seen far too many smashed cameras, iPhones and computers. And your life will be so much easier if you do bring an electronic device that accesses wifi, don’t depend on Internet cafes, wifi is everywhere and the glorious interwebs is the ultimate travel assistant.

20120620-193315.jpg

2. Payment is in cash and is negotiable: since Internet and phone service are spotty at best, most establishments cannot accept credit cards for payment. Cash (Thai Baht) is a must, especially in the islands and on street level in the cities. Many a traveler is stuck when they depend on their credit cards or USD for getting around, eating or shopping. Luckily, ATMs are plentiful in most places and you can withdraw up to 15,000 Bhat at a time (of course there is a 150 bht surcharge for each withdrawal). Once you have your cash in hand, only a fool pays the sticker price. Everything from sandals to mouthwash to hotel rooms are negotiable. Most items do not even have a price listed, you just have to find out from the shop/stall owner. My favorite strategy is to inquire about the price of an item at one place, then go to the next and speak first to suggest a lower price to the vendor. The vendor will probably counter your offer so then I like to just stay silent for a while, the vendor may go ahead and drop their offer once more if you seem hesitant, without you having to haggle at all. In the end, don’t be afraid to walk away, even if you really want or need the item/service. Sometimes the bottom line price isn’t given to you until you make it five steps away from the storefront. Everything is still cheap in SEA so sometimes haggling over 2 or 3 dollars is pointless, unless you just like the sport of it. The bottom line is: only pay a much as you feel comfortable with for the particular item or service and don’t get duped into a high price before you are comfortable understanding the conversion rate. Luckily, Thai money is color coded and sized differently, making it easy to get a handle on the note denominations quickly.
NB – always make sure that you negotiate the price for a taxi or tuk-tuk before you get in, and in the case of the taxi make sure they turn the meter on.

20120620-194034.jpg

3. Take your shoes off: most of SEA and especially Thailand is predominantly Buddhist, and you never step foot into a temple with shoes on, heck, you aren’t even supposed to point your feet in the direction of the Buddha. Most stores and many hotels will require removal of shoes as well. Thais consider feet very dirty, so never put your feet up on something, touch someone or something with you feet and for gosh sakes, take your shoes off before entering anywhere indoors. The will usually be a pile of shoes and sandals to tip you off, but if you really value your footwear you may avoid the pile and toss them in a more discrete location. This probably goes without saying, but lace up shoes are a pain in the ass, wear slip-ons or sandals. The cheaper the shoes the better, my last pair of flip-flops lasted me 4 days before they dissapeared and an Aussie friend of my said his record was 5 pairs in a week. Luckily, flip-flops only run you about 100 baht (~$4). It’s worth noting that with all the shoelessness, you should still be very careful not to injure your feet on glass or other sharp objects, things tend to get infected very quickly and nastily in SEA.

20120620-194837.jpg

4. Stay calm: in SEA it is very “uncool” to get angry or raise your voice. Your patience will get tested regularly, I can promise that. Thais are very relaxed and patient people so it’s best that you adapt the same attitude. Whether its your transportation being late, your food order being wrong or almost getting run over by a scooter, just take a deep breath and let the Buddhist philosophy take hold. Americans do have the worst reputation for breaking this rule and getting upset with the little things, so set a good example for the rest of us and take a very large chill pill. At times you will be constantly pestered by touts wanting to sell you everything from cheap suits to ping-pong shows, don’t get frustrated by their persistence, keep the blinders on and keep walking with a smile. There are never any fist fights at bars, even amongst the ludicrously intoxicated, and you never want to get into a fight with a local. Instigating a fight with a local will most certainly involve you defending yourself from multiple other locals, unfair fights, using bottles, pipes, knives, rocks and Muay Thai techniques. If you just keep your cool, everything little ting is gonna be alright. Your bus or boat will show up, your food order will get fixed (or whatever they gave you will taste great anyway), and your air-con and Internet will start working again.

20120620-195258.jpg

5. Try new food: don’t miss out on some of the most tasty items in SEA due to the questionable cooking areas, strange smells, strange names or your utter cowardice. Thai people are especially we’ll known for their cleanliness in cooking. Most “kitchens” wouldn’t pass even the most basic inspection in the states, but the cooks themselves know what they are doing. Utensils and dishes are sanitized and the food is properly stored and cooked. Some people miss out on some really great food experiences because they only stick to what they know. Obviously don’t drink the water from the tap but bottled water and the ice in restaurants are ok, and it’s ok to brush your teeth with the tap water. I ate and drank everything I could and I never once got sick, not even a tummy ache. Try all the strange looking fruits, I haven’t found one I disliked yet, I especially love the Rambutan and Mangosteen. Sample the street-side insects (I recommend crickets) and go all out at the 7/11 with crab and basil flavored chips, strange looking yogurt drinks, seaweed jerky and for gosh sakes if you haven’t had a tuna toasty at 2am, first, punch yourself in the face, then do yourself a favor and go buy 2 of them.

20120620-195840.jpg

20120620-200223.jpg

6. Ask Travel Agents, but don’t always buy from them: since there is an increased requirement for travel by bus, boat, van, taxi, scooter, pack-mule etc., you will find yourself in need of some localized guidance. The wonderful interwebs can only get you so far in SEA because in second and third world countries most transportation methods do not list online and getting from place to place requires multiple modes of transportation. My last adventure from Siem Reap to Bangkok involved: tuk-tuk/mini bus/walking/tuk-tuk/tour bus/motorbike taxi/train, in that order. In SEA you have to get by the old fashioned way and that means using a travel agent…sometimes. I have been ripped off by an agent my fare share of times or mislead in a variety of ways, but I have always made it to my final destination. Many fiercely independent travelers will shy away from the many travel agencies all over SEA, but they really can be an invaluable resource for information and a discount on complicated travel arrangements. If you have time to do the research online, you can most likely figure out the rough idea of getting from point A to B, but don’t expect it to be smooth. Traveling from place to place is always an adventure and most often very exhausting, but some of my best moments and stories have come from these trying travel days.

20120620-200610.jpg

7. Don’t always be a “Pleasure Seeker”: many travelers envision the ideal SEA vacation to be all about sipping fruity alcoholic beverages on the beach all day,experimenting with the variety of unpoliced drugs, or getting ridiculously pampered with massages and cheap yet fancy hotels. I have done plenty of the aforementioned from time to time but I feel that you really have to find times to separate yourself from all that noise. Take time to just have a walk-about, go grocery shopping, find an adventurous local excursion for the day, or just relax somewhere outside the bounds of your hotel. Challenge yourself with a cooking class, meditation retreat or volunteer work. In my opinion the best way to enjoy another country is to experience some of the culture, uninhibited and un-inebriated. You may come to realize that laying out poolside or on the beach is quite the same anywhere you go, even in your backyard. Take time to communicate with the locals or go to a market. It feels good to get away from the touristy flash. Even as a backpacker through hostels and camps, take time to get away from the other sweaty backpackers and immerse yourself in both the locals and the upscale vacationers. Perspective comes from both directions.

20120620-200824.jpg
(Anna, if you are reading this, I’m sorry for using this picture, but it was too perfect, hehe)

8. Common Sense Rules: there are a million ways to die, get seriously injured or hurt. There are no guardrails, handrails or danger signs. Police are seldom around and when they are, they are most likely not on the side of helping a westerner. Crazy drivers, no helmets, horrible pavement, and unintelligible road signs. Stupid people don’t last in SEA, so use your noggin. Don’t put yourself in dumb situations with silly people and trust your instincts with touts and other potential scammers. Putting blinders on and training yourself not to look at every tout who says, “hey sir”, will take you leagues. I see all too often the bandaged limping backpacker and the small cut that turned grossly infected. Use band-aids (plasters) and antibiotic ointment on any scratch. If something looks unsafe, unstable or broken it probably is and will be soon. You can’t trust the upkeep of things in Asia quite like you can in the good ol’ US of A. If you find yourself in SEA, do your life expectancy a favor and use your stupid brain with everything from crossing the road to rock climbing.

20120620-201324.jpg

20120620-201346.jpg

9. Get used to the Bathrooms: you will be faced with toilet challenges of all kinds. Usually the first is the noticeable absence of toilet paper. The sewers here just aren’t designed for anything but human waste, so most toilets come equipped with a handheld bidet. Don’t worry if you are washing the walls with it at first, with forced practice you will get used to it, I promise. If you are lucky enough to have TP, don’t throw it in the toilet, use the trash can, you don’t want an Asian plumbing problem. Secondly, it’s guaranteed that at some point you will have to use a, “squatter”. When you find yourself in the more local parts of town there are no western toilets to be found. Instead you have the more eastern style, “squatter”, toilet. So aptly named because that’s exactly what you do; stand on the porcelain rim and squat. It’s a strange and smelly experience, but some say it is a healthier way of taking the Cosbys to the pool. The “squatters” are also a manual flush operation, so when you are finished you dump a few bucketful’s of water down that drain and let gravity do the work. Lastly, in most hotel rooms, the bathroom and the shower are the same closet sized room and the showers are usually cold water, handheld, low pressure garbage. But I like to look on the bright side and consider the multi-tasking opportunities a toilet/shower brings.

20120620-201729.jpg

20120620-201804.jpg

10. Asians like a slim fit: when purchasing clothing in SEA, which I do highly reccomned since its cheap and allows you to pack light, remember that they are a small people in general. I think my first purchase was underwear, and I learned the hard way. Large was unwearable at the get-go, XL was unwearable after 1 wash, and XXL (the largest you will find, if you are even that lucky) are more nut-hugging than I am comfortable with. Same goes for shirts, shorts and pants. Just attempt to try things on before buying them, even though fitting rooms are nonexistent in SEA, you left your dignity back home, so drop trow and try it on right then and there.

So in closing: Have a freaking, bomb-ass, grandma slappin, helluva good time because you are not only smart and lucky, but brave enough to shun the traditional, “one weak”, vacation in Mexico and come to one of the greatest spots on the planet.

Malaysian Sensation

When my friends told me that our next destination after Koh Phi Phi needed to be Kuala Lumpur, the part of my brain responsible for geography simply shut down. I couldn’t have even guessed where Kuala Lumpur was and my assumption is that most Americans would have the same trouble. Google Maps to the rescue! Kuala Lumpur (KL) is located in Malaysia, a half peninsular to the Asian continent, bordering Thailand and half island bordering, Indonesia. KL is a city of over 1.6 million people (~7 million unofficially) and considered a major hub of southeast Asia. Not as large as Bangkok, but much more new and technologically/architecturally developed. Wikipedia revealed the glittering image of the landmark Petronas Towers which vaguely registered a memory deep within my mind. I admit, I was ashamed I had never really known about this metropolis that hosts many an international event like Formula 1 racing and the global oil/energy summit. After my Google Maps/Wikipedia refresher I was ready for the trip and of course for a change of scenery to a big city after being in remote islands for so long.
After a short ferry boat ride, we hopped on an Air Asia (another great Asian airline btw) flight out of Krabi International and landed in Kuala Lumpur Airport 2 hours later. Of course, a new country meant a new currency, so we made for an ATM and drew out a couple hundred, Malaysian Ringgit (RM), at an exchange ration of 3:1 to the dollar. Not as great of an exchange rate as Thailand (30:1) but we could make do since we only planned to be in KL for 2 nights. The bank notes were strangely slim, perhaps 2/3 the size of a Dollar and multicolored much like the Thai Baht.
I had booked us a room at the Swiss Garden Hotel, near the city center of KL, so we hailed a cab to take us there. Little did we know that the cab ride was an hours distance from the city. We soon realized why as the sprawl of buildings and groves of palms showed us how expansive this urban area was. Interconnected with the city center of Kuala Lumpur are smaller metro hubs like Cyberjaya and many more clusters of brand new, futuristic looking skyscrapers, stadiums and row after row of developmental housing. The landscape is hilly as KL is situated in a called around a muddy river, surrounded by mountains slightly smaller than those in my birth-town of Asheville NC. Where there are not modern buildings there are groves upon groves of palm trees.
Malaysia is predominantly Muslim and the influence was evident even without leaving our hotel. Women in headscarves and men in traditional caps were prevalent. I also noticed that a large percentage of the other travelers were of middle eastern decent. Even our ride up the elevator to our 8th floor room was alongside a Saudi Arabian couple: the husband in shorts, sandals and t-shirt, the wife in floor length black silk robes, only a narrow slit for her to see through. The food menus were devoid of any pig products and of course there were the noticeable colored domes and minarets of many mosques around the city.
The whole of KL is very diverse, much more so than Bangkok. I notice all types of nationalities and ethnicities, there does not seem to be a majority anywhere. The diversity is most likely due to the popularity of KL as a business and commerce hub for all of southeast Asia, and the fact that the Islamic predominance makes it a prime Asian destination for middle easterners, northern Indians and east Africans, unlike the hedonistic Bangkok of comparable urban size. The language is easier to understand as it uses the English alphabet, unlike the cryptic Thai lettering. Alongside the Malaysian and English words are also Arabic script and Mandarin symbols in order to cater to the diversity of the city.
Now this is when i get into a bit of a travelers review/rant on our hotel, The Swiss Garden Hotel, which would be described as rocky. Check-in went smoothly but as we made our way to our room we found 2 beds instead of the 3 that we requested. Quarters were tight, but that was to be expected in a downtown hotel, we just needed a place for all 3 to rest our heads. Although for a higher price per night, the room (and hospitality) was much lesser than what i experienced at a similar 4 star hotel in Bangkok. I placed a call to housekeeping to notify them of the situation and we headed off to the hotel gym for a much needed workout while our room was being set up properly. To our surprise we discovered the “gym” was not all that Hotels.com described it to be. A few outdated treadmills and a variety of mismatched dumbbells. Luckily, all of us being experienced in the Tony Horton art of P90X we had no problem getting a sweat on without the proper equipment. Next on the agenda was getting some business done, since the 3 of us make our “skrilla” on the internet we looked forward to the “free wifi” that was described on the hotels.com website before we booked. We soon came to realize that not only was there no WiFi in our room or public hotel areas, there was no free WiFi whatsoever. We inquired with the business center and were informed that we could purchase a 30 min WiFi password for 20 Ringgit, more disappointment and utter shock at both the ridiculously high fee and hotels.com’s misleading description of “free WiFi” that we based our hotel booking upon. Some of us paid the fee in disgust, some of us just went to bed.
The next morning we started our first full day in KL. Things started off well as the free breakfast included at out hotel was extensive and delicious. An unlimited buffet of items covering all the major breakfast appetites: Jok with condiments for the Thai, Nasi Lemak for the Malaysians, Roti with curry for the Indians and English breakfast for us westerners (minus the bacon of course). Swiss Garden Hotel was certainly earning some points back in their favor by stuffing out bellies with all types of international cuisine for free. Once refueled we headed out into the streets of KL for some sightseeing. It was oppressively hot so we took an air-conditioned cab to the Kuala Lumpur City Center (KLCC), which is not only a large spotlessly clean and park but also the location of the famed Petronas Towers, the largest twin towers in the world.

20120518-131102.jpg

The surrounding KLCC park was beautiful, filled with banyan trees, pools, playgrounds, fountains and spotlessly clean everywhere. We played around a bit on the parks massive playgrounds and took silly King Kong-esque pictures of ourselves with the towers.

20120518-131310.jpg

20120518-131323.jpg

20120518-131338.jpg

20120518-131358.jpg

20120518-131714.jpg

20120518-131732.jpg

20120518-131805.jpg

Below the towers is a huge shopping mall with all the high-end brands you can imagine. We explored 5 floors of shops until our feet were sore and then decided to catch a movie at the mall cinema, actually, we caught 2 in a row. Both films, “Safe” (starring Jason Statham) and “The Avengers” were in English with both Malaysian and Chinese subtitles. The movie tickets were only 10 RM each (~$3.30) and the theatre was luxuriously comfortable. After treating ourselves to 4 hours of Hollywood action, we ventured back into the KLCC park to bask in the nighttime glow of the towers and surrounding skyline.

20120518-132102.jpg

20120518-132110.jpg

20120518-132128.jpg

Dinner was consumed at Dome, an Italian restaurant in the park which served up all types of cuisine. I decided to try the national dish of Malaysia, Nasi Lemak. Nasi Lemak can and is consumed at breakfast, lunch and/or dinner in Malaysia and Indonesia, it usually consists of coconut scented rice, peanuts, boiled egg, cucumber, dried sardines, spicy red sauce and tender chicken or beef. Sometimes served on a plate sometimes wrapped inside a pandana leaf, this isthe multi-tool of Malaysian food. My version of the dish at Dome was of the higher-end Nasi Lemak spectrum.

20120518-132244.jpg

The red sauce was a spicy puffer-fish concoction and the dried sardines were kind of like fishy pork rinds. The best part was the spicy tender beef mixed with the coconut scented rice.
After dinner we walked back home since the air had cooled off considerably. We passed through shopping district after shopping district, all sparkling clean and aglow with LED light. KL is by far one of the cleanest cities I have ever experienced and also one of the most beautiful. Parks and fountains are everywhere, litter is non-existent and the smells were quite pleasant (unlike the constant stench of Bangkok that you learn to deal with). KL is also a city built for cars and even though motorbikes are prevalent, there are certainly more Lamborghini and Porsche than scooters.
Upon returning to our hotel that night, we visited the business center once again to unhappily request more WiFi time. This time a different lady was working the counter and she informed us that it would be only 10 RM for 24 hours of WiFi. We were all at once elated at the new information and furious that the previous help was so badly misinformed. The WiFi was still not free as the website described, but the situation was infinitely better than the night before.
The next morning started with another hunger crushing buffet breakfast of delectable variety followed by checkout at 11am. After multiple attempts we were not able to book flights online for some reason, so we decided to do it the old fashioned way. We got a cab back to the airport and walked up to the ticket counter for Air Asia Airlines to request 3 one-way tickets to Bangkok. Air Asia’s staff is friendly and polite and gave us a great deal on the 3pm flight. Once aboard the spartan clean plane we were treated to further kind service by Barbie-doll like stewardesses, only adding to my newfound appreciation for Air Asia and other Asian airlines. Goodbye Kuala Lumpur, and thanks for the memories, we may remember you next time we need another 30 day passport extension for Thailand.

20120518-132428.jpg