Greatest Hits: my top 10 SEA photos

In remembrance of the year that has gone by since I’ve started my blog, and the approximate 12 months since I visited Southeast Asia, I wanted to take a trip down memory lane and post my top 10 photos (as voted on by ME) from my travels in SEA, along with a little backstory on each one. All photos were shot on a Canon Powershot SX20 IS.

Without further ado, my personal top 10:

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This photo was taken on a tiny island (if you could even call it that) in the straights of Malacca, just off the coast of Ao Nang, southern Thailand. My friends and I had taken a deep water soloing trip and this was our lunch stop in between climbs. Our guide packed us fried rice and we took our lunch on the outside of a cave with this view of our boat in front of us.

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Taken while touring the grand palace in Bangkok, this row row of “guardians” lined the entire perimeter of the temple housing the Emerald Buddha. I can remember the heat on this day being unbearable amidst all the concrete of the royal complex.

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A spectacular post-sunset shot on Koh Phi Phi, while I was sitting on the porch of my hillside bungalow. At the rooftop bar in the bottom of the shot you can see they were projecting a replay of the nearby filmed movie, “The Beach”.

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The Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Walking into the buildings takes you through a high end shopping mall, including a movie theatre and food court. Outside is a wonderfully clean public park and gardens. After touring the park, my friends and I settled in for back to back movies at the theatre. The movies were one of my most memorable experiences due to the cheap tickets, spotless theatre and absence of previews before the show.

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At sunset, touring the massive complex of Wat Phra Dhammakaya, just north of Bangkok. These statues were situated at the entrance of the massive space used for huge public meditations. The “arena” was larger than any professional sports complex I’ve ever seen, housing over 100,000 people in group meditation. At the center of the concrete complex sits a 5 ton silver Buddha encased by a golden dome covered in 100,000 tiny golden Buddha statues.

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Another sunset, this time within the ruins of Angkor Wat archeological park, sitting atop the elephant temple of Phnom Bakheng, the very first temple-mountain build in Angkor. The temple symbolizes the mythical Mount Meru in the Hindi religion. This is by far the best spot to take in the sunset in the park, but visitors beware, if you don’t get there early, you will be stuck at the bottom waiting in the queue.

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Looking up at my dive partner Dave Ho while training off the coast of Koh Tao for our Advanced certifications. Dave was one awesome dude, an Asian-American, Massachusetts native, who was currently taking a vacay in Thailand from his job in China.

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Inside the compound of the main Angkor Wat temple, just after sunrise. These structures were just massive in person, hard to imagine a monk wandering the grounds hundreds of years ago, just as I was that day. In the shot you can see Kelvin and Sophie, my two traveling buddies I met during the mind bending border crossing into Cambodia. Without them, I don’t think I would have made it to Angkor, nor would I have had near as much fun.

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Looking down on the isolated paradise of Railay Beach in southern Thailand. We had to to scale a rocky, muddy, rooty precipice to get to this unofficial overlook. Railay beach can only be accessed by boat and it is home to a huge community of rock climbers and monkeys, however I was more surprised to find out that Railay is a haven for both cannabis enthusiasts and the LBGT community.

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Just another long tail boat, ferrying passengers from Ao Nang to Railay for less than $5, with the signature southwestern Thai backdrop. Typical Thai ferryman smoking a cigarette while operating a makeshift auto-engine turned prop motor.

Wat Next

Ok, so i have fallen behind with my posts, bur i swear its not because im a lazy ass, let me explain! First of all, since arriving in Europe I have been jumping around from place to place a bit more than I usually plan for (it goes against my travel philosophy) making it hard to find time to write, second the WordPress App on my iPad keeps shitting the bed and refuses to work, consequently deleting all my drafts. The good news is that there is decent WiFi in Europe (excluding Poland) and I’m committed to getting back on the blogging bandwagon so I can catch you all up to my current adventures. So let me wrap up my Asian experience with some final thoughts and pictures of the many Wats I visited during my tenure.
Wats are Buddhist temples, and I toured more than my fair share while in Thailand. Each Wat is distinct in its architecture, location, history and purpose, but like touring cathedrals and getting “churched-out” in Europe, much the same happens when my ADD kicks in after the 5th Wat in each city. The good thing is that the colorful uniqueness of all the Wats in Thailand make for some great pictures, even if I only spent 15 minutes in the place before getting “templed-out”. Below are a few pictures from a couple of my favorites.

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First we have the Wat Phra Kaew, know to us westerners as: The Temple of the Emerald Buddha. This temple is inside the Grand Palace in Bangkok, the complex that is the traditional home for the Kings of Siam (Thailand). The Wat takes up about a quarter of the Grand Palace grounds and is one of the most popular tourist attractions and religious sites in Thailand.

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Upon entering, one is first confronted by several menacing Temple Guardians, as is common in almost every Wat. These guys were about 10 feet tall.

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In addition to the building that houses the Emerald Buddha, there are 3 other Pagodas inside the Wat. This one is a golden pagoda built in the Indian style that supposedly houses some of the remains of the last Buddha.

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There are many small statues inside the temple complex, many of which are simply decorative temple guardians of different varieties. There are also small Zen-like gardens squeezed in everywhere.

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The entire inside of the wall that encircles the Wat is decorated with a continuous colorful mural depicting the mythological history of the Thai National Epic.

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There is even a full miniature scale model of Angkor Wat carved from stone.

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The main temple of the Emerald Buddha. Done in the colorful Rattanakosin architectural style.

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The main man himself, the Emerald Buddha. Actually made from jade, not emerald, this is the most sacred Buddha statue in the world. It can only be touched by the King himself and the King must do so 3 times a year to change the Buddha into its seasonal robes, like an American Girl doll. Legend has it that the Emerald Buddha is originally from India, but was transported to the northern forest monastery in Chiang Rai, where it was struck by lightning and hidden in a tree for years before its rediscovery.

In Chiang Mai I visited the mountaintop temple of Doi Suthep. To reach this temple you must drive up a steep winding mountain road, which I chose to navigate on a motorbike. Several times I found myself face to face with my own mortality when rounding a blind curve or forgetting that I am supposed to drive in the left lane (yes that happened frequently, doh!). On my way to the top I encountered some ancillary temples and many beautiful vistas of Chiang Mai.

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Mysterious white temple with all white giant Buddha image I happened upon halfway up the mountain.

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View of Chang Mai from the mountainside. Still not to the top of the mountain yet.

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Once at the top of the Mountain I encountered a small village, now mainly made up of touristy vendor shacks selling the typical street food and home crafts you see most everywhere in Thailand. Once you look past the villagers you start to see giant Buddhist relics emerge from the misty mountain, such as this giant gong and huge statue of a prominent Monk.

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You must stop driving at this point, but you have not yet reached the mountaintop temple. Now you must climb the legendary stairway to heaven. These were some intense stairs, each guardrail is the back of a 4 headed dragon.

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After the sweaty clim, you reach the top. Luckily, due to the elevation, it is about 10 degrees cooler up at the top of the mountain. Typically the top is enshrouded in cloudy mists, but I was fortunate enough to be there on a clear day.

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Once inside the temple there are many interesting nooks to explore. Flowering trees, Buddhist bells (used to ward off evil spirits) and even a huge sacred Jackfruit tree.

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Like many historic temples in southeast Asia, there are signs both Buddhist and Hindu worshippers. Doi Suthep is now Buddhist, but over the years there were times when it was a Hindu temple, depending on who was in power in the government.
The many temples of southeast Asia were a joy to explore, it’s hard to imagine a place of worship so different than the one I grew up knowing. Wats are very much a part daily life, most Thai schools are attached to Wats and the majority of young men spend time ordaining as a monk, even the King himself. Now that I’ve moved on to land of ornate and gothic catholic cathedrals, it’s interesting to compare my experiences and impressions.
Well that about does it for Asia. I’ve got many more stories and pictures I wish I could share, but time marches on and now that I’ve been in Europe for 2 weeks I think you all deserve to know what I’m seeing/experiencing over here. So Kop Khrun Khap Thailand!

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Small but Spicy! (Another post dedicated to SEA food)

I’ve come to the grim realization that I am now one of those annoying people who take pictures of their food at every meal. At least I do it for my blog and not for Facebook (not like that makes people care any more). That being said, here are some wonderful pictures of the things I eat in southeast Asia!

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The ever popular green curry with chicken. This particular curry was served at the Saturday night market in Chiang Mai. The eggplants (aubergines for you Brits) were the size of large green peas.

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This is a Northern Thailand specialty plate, served in Chiang Mai at, The Wall, an expat sponsored Pink Floyd bar. Two types of pork sausage, a pork roll, pork cracklin, boiled egg, steamed veggies and a spicy green chili sauce in the middle. Similar in appearance to the Malaysian, Nasi Lemak, but far less fishy and much more delicious.

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Curry burger, served at Eurobar in Chiang Mai. Meatless, but still hearty.

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My meal from May Kaidee’s in Chiang Mai. A popular place for taking cooking classes with a completely vegetarian menu. First is the pumpkin hummus with wild steamed rice and a Thai iced tea (super sweetened with condensed milk). Second is a tofu and veggie stir fry with cashews. Best vegetarian I’ve ever had, hands down. Chiang Mai is famous for its food for good reason.

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Another papaya salad, along with a Thai coke to cool down the spice. This one served to me at Tiger Kingdom while I watched big cats play in the pool 10 feet from me.

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My FAVE, the fresh coconut shake. Less than a dollar, served everywhere and consumed often. In a glass or in the husk, this stuff is the nectar of the gods. Both hydrating and tasty, it beats out the sweeter mango and watermelon shakes in my opinion. Many people make the mistake of thinking you can get this deliciousness out of the stereotypical brown, round coconut that has fallen from the trees. Nay, I say, the very best is the young coconut, still green and picked by monkeys from the tops of the trees before they fall to the ground.

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The famous Khaosan road critters, this one is a large cricket. All crunch, no creamy filling, this guy tasted like stale popcorn. They spray them with a soy sauce mixture and throw on a dash of salt and pepper on them to taste. It’s a dollar for 10 bugs and thirty cents just to take a picture. The lady selling them was chowing down on a full bag herself.

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Khmer curry, served in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Tons of veggies, including Potatoes, not too much spice. Kind of like a mix between Thai red and massaman curries.

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One of the more interesting dining experiences in Thailand, this was an all-u-can-eat sushi bar in Bangkok. Not only was there a buffet of sushi, fried foods and assorted dim sum, the main course was a boiling pot of broth (Tom Yum or Chicken broth) that you add ingredients to from a rotating conveyer belt. Ingredients include all forms of beef, pork, chicken, shrimp, squid and fish as well as veggies of all types. Top it all off with ice cream and a soda fountain, all for just over $10.

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Another green curry, this one from near Khaosan road in Bangkok. Subtle differences like larger eggplant (golf ball size) and baby corn.

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Worth noting that all Thailand McDonalds feature Ronald showing the traditional greeting gesture of respect. The only differences inside are that they serve a double Big Mac, a pork burger and Thai chili sauce next to the ketchup. Oh and like everywhere else in the world, there are no biscuits at breakfast, only English muffins.

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This cracked me up on Khaosan in Bangkok; probably the longest name of an establishment I’ve seen…& restaurant.

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Assorted colorful candies at MBK mall in Bangkok. I think they look better than they taste.

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These little taco-esqe creations are served on almost every street corner in Thailand. It’s a crispy pancake filled with marshmallow fluff and some stringy candied egg yolk. Probably neck and neck with pad Thai as the most popular street food in Bangkok.

Well I hope you enjoyed another installment of the random assortment of the things I eat in southeast Asia. It’s worth noting that aside from the all-u-can-eat sushi and soup place, all my meals where eaten in open air restaurants, strangely the norm in SEA. I’m always up for an adventure so let me know if there is anything you think I should try. The stinky Durian fruit is still on my list: smells like a toilet but tastes like heaven, so people claim. Until next time, stay hungry, I’ll stay cheesy.

My SEA Top 10 Tips

Ive spent almost 2 months in Southeast Asia and I have learned a great deal about living and traveling in this area. Therefore, I’ve decided to compile my top 10 SEA tips and observations for those considering a visit, in order for you to survive and thrive:

1. Pack light: No more than a carryon bag and you can even make it with just a large backpack. Anything and everything in SEA is cheap to purchase and you can get whatever you need as you realize you need it. This includes clothes, shoes, toiletries, electronics and medicines. I do not recommend that you bring nice/expensive sandals or sunglasses as you will lose them, i guarantee it. I have already gone through at least 4 pairs of flip-flops and 4 sunglasses, the good thing is that they are insanely cheap to replace. As for your one bag of choice, I don’t recommend the typical backcountry backpack, you are immediately labeled as a tourist/backpacker and open yourself up to being taken advantage of by local scammers because you stick out like a sore thumb. Also, you get more than one sideways look when walking through nice parts of town or checking into the occasional 4 star hotel for a respite from camping or hostel life. I chose the bag made by Rick Steves. The bag is designed to the maximum dimensions of an airplane overhead compartment and while it may appear to be just a square shaped piece of luggage it does have hideable backpack straps and a waist strap that can be configured in a variety of ways for backpacking. As for handbags or a day-pack, you can get those for cheap in any mall or night market, and ladies you know you will want a souvenir handbag at some point anyway, so why bring one from home? While we’re on the subject of shoulder bags, the, “Hangover II”, movie did get one thing right; When Thai men (like Leslie Chow) are out and about or traveling, they do carry man purses, however they are probably not filled with lots of cash or skittles. For your clothes, I say; 1 pants, 1 shorts, 1 swimwear, 1 collared shirt, 3 t-shirts, low profile running shoes, and something like boat-shoes that can be worn out to dinner or to the beach. Remember: it’s hot and humid, so cotton is the devil, if you are wearing cotton and get wet or sweaty, you will stay that way. Invest in some dri-fit. Oh, and protect your electronic gadgetry with some high quality cases, I’ve seen far too many smashed cameras, iPhones and computers. And your life will be so much easier if you do bring an electronic device that accesses wifi, don’t depend on Internet cafes, wifi is everywhere and the glorious interwebs is the ultimate travel assistant.

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2. Payment is in cash and is negotiable: since Internet and phone service are spotty at best, most establishments cannot accept credit cards for payment. Cash (Thai Baht) is a must, especially in the islands and on street level in the cities. Many a traveler is stuck when they depend on their credit cards or USD for getting around, eating or shopping. Luckily, ATMs are plentiful in most places and you can withdraw up to 15,000 Bhat at a time (of course there is a 150 bht surcharge for each withdrawal). Once you have your cash in hand, only a fool pays the sticker price. Everything from sandals to mouthwash to hotel rooms are negotiable. Most items do not even have a price listed, you just have to find out from the shop/stall owner. My favorite strategy is to inquire about the price of an item at one place, then go to the next and speak first to suggest a lower price to the vendor. The vendor will probably counter your offer so then I like to just stay silent for a while, the vendor may go ahead and drop their offer once more if you seem hesitant, without you having to haggle at all. In the end, don’t be afraid to walk away, even if you really want or need the item/service. Sometimes the bottom line price isn’t given to you until you make it five steps away from the storefront. Everything is still cheap in SEA so sometimes haggling over 2 or 3 dollars is pointless, unless you just like the sport of it. The bottom line is: only pay a much as you feel comfortable with for the particular item or service and don’t get duped into a high price before you are comfortable understanding the conversion rate. Luckily, Thai money is color coded and sized differently, making it easy to get a handle on the note denominations quickly.
NB – always make sure that you negotiate the price for a taxi or tuk-tuk before you get in, and in the case of the taxi make sure they turn the meter on.

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3. Take your shoes off: most of SEA and especially Thailand is predominantly Buddhist, and you never step foot into a temple with shoes on, heck, you aren’t even supposed to point your feet in the direction of the Buddha. Most stores and many hotels will require removal of shoes as well. Thais consider feet very dirty, so never put your feet up on something, touch someone or something with you feet and for gosh sakes, take your shoes off before entering anywhere indoors. The will usually be a pile of shoes and sandals to tip you off, but if you really value your footwear you may avoid the pile and toss them in a more discrete location. This probably goes without saying, but lace up shoes are a pain in the ass, wear slip-ons or sandals. The cheaper the shoes the better, my last pair of flip-flops lasted me 4 days before they dissapeared and an Aussie friend of my said his record was 5 pairs in a week. Luckily, flip-flops only run you about 100 baht (~$4). It’s worth noting that with all the shoelessness, you should still be very careful not to injure your feet on glass or other sharp objects, things tend to get infected very quickly and nastily in SEA.

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4. Stay calm: in SEA it is very “uncool” to get angry or raise your voice. Your patience will get tested regularly, I can promise that. Thais are very relaxed and patient people so it’s best that you adapt the same attitude. Whether its your transportation being late, your food order being wrong or almost getting run over by a scooter, just take a deep breath and let the Buddhist philosophy take hold. Americans do have the worst reputation for breaking this rule and getting upset with the little things, so set a good example for the rest of us and take a very large chill pill. At times you will be constantly pestered by touts wanting to sell you everything from cheap suits to ping-pong shows, don’t get frustrated by their persistence, keep the blinders on and keep walking with a smile. There are never any fist fights at bars, even amongst the ludicrously intoxicated, and you never want to get into a fight with a local. Instigating a fight with a local will most certainly involve you defending yourself from multiple other locals, unfair fights, using bottles, pipes, knives, rocks and Muay Thai techniques. If you just keep your cool, everything little ting is gonna be alright. Your bus or boat will show up, your food order will get fixed (or whatever they gave you will taste great anyway), and your air-con and Internet will start working again.

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5. Try new food: don’t miss out on some of the most tasty items in SEA due to the questionable cooking areas, strange smells, strange names or your utter cowardice. Thai people are especially we’ll known for their cleanliness in cooking. Most “kitchens” wouldn’t pass even the most basic inspection in the states, but the cooks themselves know what they are doing. Utensils and dishes are sanitized and the food is properly stored and cooked. Some people miss out on some really great food experiences because they only stick to what they know. Obviously don’t drink the water from the tap but bottled water and the ice in restaurants are ok, and it’s ok to brush your teeth with the tap water. I ate and drank everything I could and I never once got sick, not even a tummy ache. Try all the strange looking fruits, I haven’t found one I disliked yet, I especially love the Rambutan and Mangosteen. Sample the street-side insects (I recommend crickets) and go all out at the 7/11 with crab and basil flavored chips, strange looking yogurt drinks, seaweed jerky and for gosh sakes if you haven’t had a tuna toasty at 2am, first, punch yourself in the face, then do yourself a favor and go buy 2 of them.

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6. Ask Travel Agents, but don’t always buy from them: since there is an increased requirement for travel by bus, boat, van, taxi, scooter, pack-mule etc., you will find yourself in need of some localized guidance. The wonderful interwebs can only get you so far in SEA because in second and third world countries most transportation methods do not list online and getting from place to place requires multiple modes of transportation. My last adventure from Siem Reap to Bangkok involved: tuk-tuk/mini bus/walking/tuk-tuk/tour bus/motorbike taxi/train, in that order. In SEA you have to get by the old fashioned way and that means using a travel agent…sometimes. I have been ripped off by an agent my fare share of times or mislead in a variety of ways, but I have always made it to my final destination. Many fiercely independent travelers will shy away from the many travel agencies all over SEA, but they really can be an invaluable resource for information and a discount on complicated travel arrangements. If you have time to do the research online, you can most likely figure out the rough idea of getting from point A to B, but don’t expect it to be smooth. Traveling from place to place is always an adventure and most often very exhausting, but some of my best moments and stories have come from these trying travel days.

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7. Don’t always be a “Pleasure Seeker”: many travelers envision the ideal SEA vacation to be all about sipping fruity alcoholic beverages on the beach all day,experimenting with the variety of unpoliced drugs, or getting ridiculously pampered with massages and cheap yet fancy hotels. I have done plenty of the aforementioned from time to time but I feel that you really have to find times to separate yourself from all that noise. Take time to just have a walk-about, go grocery shopping, find an adventurous local excursion for the day, or just relax somewhere outside the bounds of your hotel. Challenge yourself with a cooking class, meditation retreat or volunteer work. In my opinion the best way to enjoy another country is to experience some of the culture, uninhibited and un-inebriated. You may come to realize that laying out poolside or on the beach is quite the same anywhere you go, even in your backyard. Take time to communicate with the locals or go to a market. It feels good to get away from the touristy flash. Even as a backpacker through hostels and camps, take time to get away from the other sweaty backpackers and immerse yourself in both the locals and the upscale vacationers. Perspective comes from both directions.

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(Anna, if you are reading this, I’m sorry for using this picture, but it was too perfect, hehe)

8. Common Sense Rules: there are a million ways to die, get seriously injured or hurt. There are no guardrails, handrails or danger signs. Police are seldom around and when they are, they are most likely not on the side of helping a westerner. Crazy drivers, no helmets, horrible pavement, and unintelligible road signs. Stupid people don’t last in SEA, so use your noggin. Don’t put yourself in dumb situations with silly people and trust your instincts with touts and other potential scammers. Putting blinders on and training yourself not to look at every tout who says, “hey sir”, will take you leagues. I see all too often the bandaged limping backpacker and the small cut that turned grossly infected. Use band-aids (plasters) and antibiotic ointment on any scratch. If something looks unsafe, unstable or broken it probably is and will be soon. You can’t trust the upkeep of things in Asia quite like you can in the good ol’ US of A. If you find yourself in SEA, do your life expectancy a favor and use your stupid brain with everything from crossing the road to rock climbing.

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9. Get used to the Bathrooms: you will be faced with toilet challenges of all kinds. Usually the first is the noticeable absence of toilet paper. The sewers here just aren’t designed for anything but human waste, so most toilets come equipped with a handheld bidet. Don’t worry if you are washing the walls with it at first, with forced practice you will get used to it, I promise. If you are lucky enough to have TP, don’t throw it in the toilet, use the trash can, you don’t want an Asian plumbing problem. Secondly, it’s guaranteed that at some point you will have to use a, “squatter”. When you find yourself in the more local parts of town there are no western toilets to be found. Instead you have the more eastern style, “squatter”, toilet. So aptly named because that’s exactly what you do; stand on the porcelain rim and squat. It’s a strange and smelly experience, but some say it is a healthier way of taking the Cosbys to the pool. The “squatters” are also a manual flush operation, so when you are finished you dump a few bucketful’s of water down that drain and let gravity do the work. Lastly, in most hotel rooms, the bathroom and the shower are the same closet sized room and the showers are usually cold water, handheld, low pressure garbage. But I like to look on the bright side and consider the multi-tasking opportunities a toilet/shower brings.

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10. Asians like a slim fit: when purchasing clothing in SEA, which I do highly reccomned since its cheap and allows you to pack light, remember that they are a small people in general. I think my first purchase was underwear, and I learned the hard way. Large was unwearable at the get-go, XL was unwearable after 1 wash, and XXL (the largest you will find, if you are even that lucky) are more nut-hugging than I am comfortable with. Same goes for shirts, shorts and pants. Just attempt to try things on before buying them, even though fitting rooms are nonexistent in SEA, you left your dignity back home, so drop trow and try it on right then and there.

So in closing: Have a freaking, bomb-ass, grandma slappin, helluva good time because you are not only smart and lucky, but brave enough to shun the traditional, “one weak”, vacation in Mexico and come to one of the greatest spots on the planet.

Status Update (and housecleaning)

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As I prepare to leave the land of geckos, coconuts and ladyboys, I figure it’s time for a brief update on my plans and some general housecleaning of the blog. Prague is my next destination and I feel like I should be ready for a change of climate and cuisine, but I can’t help being saddened that I am leaving SEA. It’s been a really rad 2 months and I feel like there is still so much I left untouched, especially after my recent week-long venture into Cambodia. As I was enduring the 6 hour third class train from Bangkok to the Cambodian border, I realized wholeheartedly that I love Thailand. My seat was heinously uncomfortable plastic and the train car unbelievably crowded along with no A/C in 90 degree heat, but as I stared out the open window at acre upon acre of farmland and palms I felt a settling peace and contentment that made my ass ache less. Even with movies like “The Beach” and “Hangover 2″ exposing the fun to be had and beauty to be seen in Thailand, I frequently wonder; why don’t more Americans come here? It’s strange how much Thailand seems like an undiscovered paradise at times, even when I’m amongst the crowds of European, Scandinavian, British and Australian tourists/backpackers. It’s just strangely uncommon to run into other Americans. In my 2 months here I’ve only met a handful, not a single north (or south) Carolinian, and only one from my stomping grounds of the southeast in general. Not saying that this is an incredibly bad thing, I get to enjoy being minority most of the time and picking up on the many language and cultural differences of our English speaking brethren from across both ponds.
When vagabonding, you not only visit interesting and unique places, you also get to meet a variety of interesting and unique people. Kindred souls or polar opposites, there something about traveling that gets me out of my introverted shell. That person sitting next to you on the island ferry or 8 hour night bus ride might be just an annoying 20 minute conversation or they could end up being your travel buddy for weeks, you just never know until you speak up. As a single traveler most of the time, I often ponder the benefits of a travel buddy; they will watch your bag when you go pee, they will split cab/hotel cost with you and they don’t mind as much when you pass out on their shoulder on that 8 hour night bus. I’ve picked up a couple good travel buddies in my time here, Travis and John of course, Shawn, Ollie & Gabby and James, Casey and now enter Kelvin and Sophia.

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During my sweat drenched, rat infested, scam ridden journey across the Thailand border into Cambodia I chanced to meet this couple, an American guy from Wisconsin and a British gal from Brighton. They extended a helping hand to me when it was apparent I was a bit overwhelmed and close to my breaking point. Through our subsequent border crossing and shared taxi ride into Siem Reap we struck up a partnership that lasted my full week in Cambodia. We played tomb raider in the ancient ruins of Angkor Wat, ate a confusing Cambodia BBQ and had quite a few tequila and dancing infused late nights.
One evening, shortly after placing 3rd in a Cambodian pub quiz (and polishing off two towers of Anchor Beer), we were approached by an adorable waif of an Australian girl who was looking for some buddies herself, so in the nature that almost all travelers here share, we gave her a chair and poured her a beer from our tower. Jagerbombs and ridiculous dance moves later, we had ourselves a veritable gang. The wonderful Rachel was a sharp witted, ukelele toting aussie gal who shared the same creative and nerdy traits of all my great friends back home, only with an Australian accent, schwing! She is quite hilarious and you can see for yourself on her blog, http://www.racheltripsitup.wordpress.com. Seriously, do it, she’s a much more entertaining writer than me and she will have loads of great stories to tell as she works teaching in Cambodia.
The hard part comes when it’s time to go your separate ways. You feel like you’ve made a connection with some people that is lasting and just when the fun starts you are called in different directions, c’est la vie. You hope that one day your paths may cross again, but the odds are hardly ever in your favor (no Hunger Games pun intended). However, you never know, I thought I said my final goodbyes to my trek-mates in Chiang Mai, only to meet up with them a week later in distant Koh Tao. It’s all part of the ride, sometimes you feel up and sometimes you crash, but as the Chinese proverb states, “the journey is the reward”. Sorry if this post seems a little scatterbrained, it’s probably because I truly feel that way at the moment. Excited and anxious for a new part of the world to explore but occasionally detached and depressed that I have to leave one of the best places on earth. To make up for the terrible writing and flow, here are some fun housecleaning pics:

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Advanced Diving

After the Open Water Diver certification, the second stage for most is the Advanced Diver course. Which sharpens your skills and introduces you to some new diving situations, after completion you are allowed to dive anywhere in the world up to 30 meters. The Advanced course is a series of 5 dives over 2 days with zero time spent in the classroom, just diving and taking your skills to the next level, its also cheaper and you typically get a discount if diving with the same school as your previous certification. For me it was a 10% discount with Big Blue, 3 more nights of free accommodation and a free shirt. Sweetness.
With the Advanced course you are required to include an advanced buoyancy test, a deep dive to 30 meters and a navigation test, but the other 2 dives are up to you. My Advanced course class was simply me and two others, Dave and Wendy. So again I had the chance to partner up with the instructor, Luke, and get one-on-one guidance from a dive master! We chose our 2 elective dives to be a night dive and a fish ID dive. You can also choose an underwater photography dive but this comes with the cost of renting the underwater camera, 1,200 bht, I had my GoPro so I was all set.
We started at 10am with a quick briefing by Luke and a rundown on the dives we had selected. That afternoon we set sail for a series of 3 dives starting with our advanced buoyancy test, requiring us to do a series of maneuvers and floats, in order to test our ability to stay controlled and avoid damaging coral reefs. Part of the buoyancy test was to swim though a plastic square in a number of ways, even upside down and a backwards loop through it.

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After passing our buoyancy tests we were free to roam Liem Thieam bay to take up the rest of our 51 minute dive time. The only other skill test was for me to lead the team on our ascent to the surface. A proper ascent requires that we ascend slower than the bubbles coming out of our rebreather and that we take a 3 minute safety stop at 5 meters from the surface in order for any extra gas to escape our bloodstream. I then inflate the, “safety sausage”, to signal our location to anyone above sea level, and finally proceed to break the surface.
Our second dive was our navigation test, so we were each outfitted with a dive computer and dive compass, divers bling….

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Luckily I did get my orienteering merit badge as a boy scout, so this test was an easy one. Just like in scouts, except instead of in the woods, I was underwater using the bearings on a compass and visual landmarks to navigate myself around the bay without Luke there to guide me. Wendy, Dave and I took turns taking the lead and goofing off since our instructor was not around on this dive.

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The last dive of the day took place around 7pm and was to be our much anticipated Night Dive. The sun had set but there was still enough dusk light to get our equipment rigged and take the plunge into the water with flashlights in hand. As we descended, the fading light combined with the darkness of the water acted quickly to pitch us into total darkness. It was like being in space, floating in darkness, listening to yourself breath though a regulator and seeing only the pillars of light cast by the flashlights of other divers. I stayed close behind Luke, for fear of crashing into a sea urchin or some abrasive coral. In the darkness our torches hit upon many a large Barracuda during their evening dinner hunting. We even happened upon a ray and a hawksbill turtle sleeping under a rock. The coolest thing was that when near the huge barracuda, we could spotlight a smaller fish with our light and the barracuda would have the perfect opportunity to attack the exposed fish.
After about 45 minutes our heads were breakng the surface and we were climbing back into the boat, exhausted but exhilarated by the dive. After getting back on dry land around 9pm and considering our next dive would be at 6:30am the next morning, I fully collapsed into bed to recuperate.

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The next morning was an early one and a blustery one. Our first dive of the day was to be our “deep dive”, wherein we would be taken to maximum depth of 30 meters and tested for any signs of Nitrogen Narcosis, commonly known as being “narced”. The effects of Nitrogen Narcosis are akin to being very drunk and are caused by the amount of nitrogen in the bloodstream at such deep depth. Symptoms can include drowsiness, disorientation and hallucinations. To test ourselves we went through a number of mental skills once situated at 30 meters deep, such as writing our names backwards and adding to 10. We all 3 passed without incident, but I admit I was a little disappointed I didn’t feel anything. I’ve heard stories of grown men chasing down Grouper to try and give them air and women seeing diamond necklaces in the sand while under the influence of Nitrogen Narcosis.
The last dive of the day, and of the entire Advanced course, was practically a fun dive, but we were given flash cards and pokers so that we could pass it off as our Fish ID Dive. I spent most of the dive taking pictures and videos with my camera of the angelfish, coral and hawksbill sea turtle we came across.

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After the final dive we were taken back to Big Blue, properly logged our dive books and were given the card credentials of Advanced Adventure Divers. The next step, should I choose to take it, would be to become a Rescue Diver or committ fully to the 6 week program of DMT in order to become a dive master and then dive instructor so that I could then work for a place like Big Blue. Many a vacationer have come to Koh Tao for a week and ended up staying a year or more to become a certified instructor and dive master.

Last but not least, you know I couldn’t help putting a video montage together:

Sealab 2012

Koh Tao is a small island in the gulf of Thailand that is world famous for its diving. Calm, clear water, plenty of coral reefs, and sea life that include turtles, rays, whale sharks and a colorful array of fish. These natural wonders combined with the ridiculously low cost of diving make it one of the most thriving diving communities in the world, qualifying over 2% of all the worlds DMTs (dive master in training). So it’s no wonder that I decided to make a return rendezvous with this island when I decided to gain some experience as a diver myself.
My pre-existing diving experience came in the form of a Cozumel, Mexico resort about 15 years ago. The, “dive instructors”, at the resort simply handed me the full equipment, showed me how to put it on and promptly escorted me to the ocean and told me to walk in and start breathing underwater. I also took part in what is called “Snuba-diving” at one point during a family vacation to Hawaii about 10 years ago, which simply amounted to being the joke of the holiday. Consensus: Mexican resorts are irresponsible and Snuba is a joke not worth telling. Coming to Koh Tao and immersing myself in the diving community that exists there truly showed me how serious a sport diving really is.
The first step for any aspiring diver is their Open Water Diver certification, which qualifies a person to dive anywhere in the world up to 18 meters deep with the proper equipment and an experienced instructor. Of the multitude of diving outfits in Koh Tao, I chose Big Blue Diving for my training. Big Blue came highly recommended by my friends and is one of the larger diving schools on the island with a typical class size of 10 students. One might also choose to go with Ban’s Dive school, one of the largest in the world or perhaps a smaller outfit with smaller class sizes and more personal attention such as Rocktopus Diving school. It all depends on the experience you want and the level of personal attention you feel you need.

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My Open Water Diver course was to take place over the span of 4 days and I was offered free, “dorm room”, accommodations at Big Blue as long as I was enrolled. I enrolled the day I arrived on the island and I was to start class at 5pm. After checking out the dorm room accommodations I was satisfied with the free price and lukewarm shower so I proceeded to claim a top-bunk and have a meet-n-greet with my fellow bunk mates, all of which were also divers of varying levels and solo travelers like myself.

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The, front and center, dorms also included the entertainment of all the local pet dogs in the area. To explain; Koh Tao has an abundance of canines, which are readily taken care of by the locals and semi-permanent dive instructors of the island. All the dogs have their own personalities and territories, Big Blue claiming about 4 different pups, most notably the kitchen dog named Sausage, seen here:

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The first day was a classroom setting where myself and a group of 10 others learned the basics of equipment, diving physics and sea life, such as the definition of SCUBA (self contained underwater breathing apparatus) and the hazards of improper ascent and descent (the Bends and lung over-expansion). After class we were provided with textbooks and homework, sent home with the promise of actually being under water the next day.
Day two included a bit more classroom activity, but in the afternoon we attempted out first underwater excursion…in a pool. We were fitted for all the equipment (BC, regulator, tank, mask and fins) and were shown how to properly assemble and wear the get-up. We then proceeded to break up into groups and practice the skills we learned in the classroom. My group included a German couple, an Icelandic couple (I still don’t believe their language is real), and myself. I got to partner with the instructor, Guy, from the UK. We all passed the drills smashingly and were all ready for the next day of actual ocean diving.

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Before we could step into the ocean however, we had to take our Final Exam. The Final Exam consisted of 50 multiple choice questions regarding all the skills we were force fed over the previous two days. I finished first, very confident that I got 100% (offered the reward of a free beer), only to find out I missed 5 questions. Oh well, I still passed and I think that most of the questions I missed were debatable, seems about par for the course with my academic career. In fact, everyone in the class passed, but no one with 100%, but it didn’t matter since we were all juiced for our first open water dives that afternoon. The only real setback was that my previous instructor, Guy, had gotten himself badly electrocuted right before class by trying to use a defunct electric socket. Apparently plugging your laptop into the wall is more dangerous than diving. After a few hours he was OK, but not in any condition to dive, so I was assigned a new instructor and dive buddy, Luke, also from the UK…where else.
Dives 1 and 2 took place at 12:30pm the same day as the final exam. We were fitted for our BC, fins and mask and taken by long-tail boat out to the larger Dive Boats situated in the bay. After a quick 30 min boat ride to peaceful Mango Bay on the other side of the island, we were anchored and gathered downstairs for assembling our gear and getting in the water.

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A little flumbly with the gear and a few hiccups with the assembly, but after our first, “giant stride” entry, we were in the water and descending (we would later learn the “dead Mexican” and “James Bond” entry styles). I was a bit nervous at first, but once my ears started equalizing normally and I realized the beauty around me I was too excited to be scared. Once we reached the bottom around 11 meters deep, we proceeded to get comfortable swimming and then practice a few of the emergency drills we learned in the pool the previous day such as; filling and clearing your mask of water, removing your mask, removing your rebreather and using your secondary rebreather, amongst others. Removing the mask is definitely the hardest one for me, the salt water still burns your eyes and it takes more focus than you think to try and breath only through your mouth without pinching your nose underwater. The total dive lasting about 45 minutes, the longest I’ve ever been underwater for sure, unless you count that old submarine ride at Disney World.
Dive number two took place at Japanese Gardens, a nice outcrop of coral where we once again practiced some skills and worked on our buoyancy and kicking techniques. After skills were complete to Luke’s satisfaction, we were free to explore a bit and take in the scenery. We encountered hoards of Yellowstripe Scad, colorful Bannerfish, tiny Perian Carpet Flatworms and the territorial Titan Triggerfish.

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The next and final day if diving in the Open Water certification course took place promptly at 6:30am. So the usual Koh Tao nightlife spots of Lotus and Fishbowl we’re without my presence for at least one night. Bleary eyed but excited I showed up at the equipment shack to claim my gear and hop on the long tail boat to be ferried out to the dive boat. The mornings two dives would be at Liem Thieam Bay and Red Rock, two great spots for seeing aquatic life and staying above our depth limit of 18 meters. The skill tests were over for the most part and this final day was about just having fun and enjoying diving. They even send along a film crew with you on the final day in order to produce a video of your group at the end of the day (in hopes that you will buy it). The final 2 dives did not disappoint, I felt much more comfortable and confident in my abilities and got to see a pair of white-eye Moray Eels, Jenkins Stingray, Orange Spine Unicorn fish, Malabar Grouper, Glass Shrimps, Sixbar Angelfish and a Black Blotched Porcupine fish. There was also a fair amount of goofing off for the cameras.

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The diving wrapped up around noon and once our dive books were properly logged I was ready for a nap. Later that evening we were presented with our official “Open Water Diver” certification cards and we all sat down at the Big Blue bar for a beer and the premier of the video that was made for our graduating class. As the video says: Congratulations, Open Water Diver. Next up, the Advanced Diver certification.

Dhammakaya Yoga

When I decided I wanted to travel the world, I made a promise to myself that I wouldn’t only do the things that were just fun or easy. In other words, my travels wouldn’t be all about being a, “pleasure seeker”, sipping cocktails on the beach all day and frequenting the touristy sightseeing spots can get old faster than you think. This wasn’t going to be a vacation, it was an experiment in lifestyle design. I wanted to challenge myself and acquire new skills that would assist me in changing my perspective and deciding what I wanted to do with the rest of my professional and personal life. Little did I know that I would have to actually fool myself in order to experience one of these challenging new events.
Whilst hanging around in Chiang Mai I decided that I wanted to do a yoga retreat. Yoga isn’t new to me, but it is challenging and I wanted to become more proficient in the practice of it. I started researching the myriad of weeklong retreats around Thailand and found that most didn’t actually start until the main tourist season begins (Aug-Mar). Disappointed but determined, I kept searching and came across a paper brochure advertising 4 day 3 night meditation/yoga retreats with POP (power of peace) House. The next retreat began on the upcoming Tuesday, just in the nick of time for me to streamline my transition from Chiang Mai to Koh Tao. I didn’t think much about the fact that in the brochure the word, meditation came before the word yoga, I was just happy I had found a place and that the timing worked out perfectly. At the time i was busy reading, “The Alchemist” by Paulo Coelho, and I was reminded of the quote: “When you truly want something, the whole universe conspires to help you achieve it”, so I did the only rational thing and headed off to Pathumthani for the retreat.
The trip to Patumthani didn’t start out all that smoothly, first, the train had been derailed in Chaing Mai and I was told I couldn’t buy a train ticket. I was starting to wonder about the validity of Paulo Coelho’s theory. I soon happened upon a pair from Birmingham,UK, that were facing the same situation and learned that I could take the bus down south a few towns and get on the train from there. So another night train journey and I was back to Bangkok in no time flat. While traveling though Bangkok during my journey to Pathumthani, I did take the time to sit down in a Starbucks and visit the POP House website in order to gain a little more insight into what to expect. The site was basic and wasn’t really working properly, but I chalked it up to the lack of Internet savvy all over SEA. I discovered that I would need to dress in all white at almost all times (even underwear) and shorts or sleeveless shirts would not be tolerated, strange I thought, but fine by me if it adds to the experience. I didn’t really bring any white clothing, especially pants, so I went to the mall in Bangkok and got all the white linen supplies I would need for under 700bht ($24), strangely enough the most expensive thing was the white underwear. I also discovered that I would be expected to live under 8 Buddhist precepts during my stay at POP House, which were: Refrain from harming or killing any insect, animal, or human being. Refrain from stealing or taking what is not yours to take. Refrain from acts of sexual misconduct. Refrain from allowing your speech to harm others (cursing or lying). Refrain from alcohol or other intoxicants. Refrain from eating after midday. Refrain from using electronic gadgets, phones, computers, singing, dancing, makeup or perfumes. Sleep on a simple thin mattress and detach from materialistic comforts. I would come to find out that there are actually over 200 precepts that the Buddhist monk tries to follow, these 8 were simply the most important and applicable in our situation. I was halfway to Pathumthani and was beginning to wonder, “what am I getting myself into?”. I then had the perfect timing to find the local 501 public bus in Bangkok that went north to Patumthani, but no one spoke English and stops were unannounced. So I got off at the stop that I estimated was correct, then got a taxi to take me to Wat Phra Dhammakaya, where POP House was supposed to be located. Night was falling as I arrived I was greeted at the Wat by some Monks who led me back to the offices. Apparently they were under the impression that I had come to ordain as a Monk. I then explained that I was here for the POP House retreat and after much deliberation on their part they finally realized where I needed to be taken. A quick truck ride later i was dropped off in front of a neatly maintained garden and 3 building, 3 story complex. A bizarre journey once again, but it all worked out perfect in the end. Fine Paulo, you win.
Upon entering the eerily quiet compound, I was greeted by a Monk by the name of Oszey, Luang Phaw (pronounced: Lumpy) Oszey, as I would later learn to call him. We chatted a bit and toured the facilities and I headed off to bed, dead tired from a full day of exhausting travel. My accommodations consisted of a spartan room, with 3 flat beds and 1 low pressure cold shower. The bathroom was infested with hundreds of tiny ants, leading me to believe it was simply a test of our metal when it came to the precept regarding doing no harm to insects. The mattress was only about 1 inch thick and stiff as a board, but at least there was A/C and my weary bones would have drifted off to sleep laying on a bed of nails.
The next morning, promptly at 7am, the retreat began. I was served a traditional Thai breakfast of tea and Jok along with some fresh fruit and plenty of water. Then came the intro class where much more about this retreat was revealed and explained. I was introduced to our retreat group of 7 people. The group consisted of 2 Indian girls and their mother, an Indian man named Anil and his Thai friend Son, a half french half irish girl named kathleen and myself. These was also the introduction of the staff: Peggy (the organizer), D’Anna a cook, Pan (an assistant), Aga (a polish meditation student and intern), and Gill. Gill is a very interesting story since he is an American who ordained as a Monk but has now disrobed and continues to work for Meditation outreach programs. He also happed to be from Marrietta, Georgia, making him the first fellow southerner i have ebcounterd in Thailand in over a month of traveling. Since my sister married into a family from Marrietta and Gill was into videography, we had lots to talk about. Also introduced were the Monks, our teachers and spiritual guides for these 4 days: Luang Phaw Oszey, a Monk of 3 years, hailing originally from Liverpool UK and Luang Phaw John, an American and former college philosophy professor from New York. We were then given the daily schedule of events which looked about like this:

-6:00am – Wake Up
-7:00am – Breakfast
-9:30am – Meditation Class
-11:30am – Lunch
-2:00pm – Afternoon Stretching / Yoga
-2:30pm – Meditation Class
-4:30pm – Personal Time and Refreshments
-6:30pm – Meditation Class
-9:00pm – Bed Time

After going over the daily itinerary I realized I wasn’t too sure if this is really what I signed up for, but instead of taking the next taxi out of town I decided to ride this retreat out for better or worse. This was not a resort by any means, it was more of a community. I had responsibilities, such as washing my own cups and dishes after meals, sweeping, cleaning and drying my linens and making sure the Monks had the help they needed. I was asked to not bring out any personal books or newspapers. With my free time I was encouraged to read one of the many Buddhist meditation, Dhamma (Dharma) or other spiritual books they provided in their library. I chose to read: “The Fruits of Monkhood”, by Phra Bahavanaviriyakhun, essentially an explanation of the Buddhist faith and the pros, cons and requirements for becoming a Monk as told by the Buddha himself (Siddharta Gautama) to the King Attayama. It was almost a companion guide to the Samannaphala Sutta, one of the most important cannons from Buddhas teachings to Dhammakaya Monks.
The first day we got to know each other and were taught the basics of meditation and even tried some 10 and 15 minute sessions. The concepts were interesting and I found myself very attentive and enjoying the classroom setting. When the “Stretching / Yoga”, time came around it became very clear that this was really just a meditation retreat. Peggy (the organizer), led the stretching, which lasted about 15 minutes and contained maybe one or two yoga poses. This short period of activity was simply a warm up for meditation. Despite not having any of the satisfying Yoga I set out for in the beginning, each day I awoke and looked forward to the next lesson, trying to absorb all I could and enjoying the peace and quite the retreat afforded me. After the first day the uncomfortable bed didn’t bother me, not eating after noon was no big deal, I wasn’t going hungry and I even wasn’t killing the ants or mosquitoes because they left me well alone.
One of the most interesting parts or the retreat was that in my free time I could simply sit with the monks and ask any questions I had about any aspect of life. Luang Phaw John and I had many a discussion about buddhist ethics, his past, and even some politics (which monks should refrain from speaking about). An interesting example of an ethical dilemma facing monks would be vegetarianism: monks are not allowed to harm any living being, so why eat meat if that leads to harming animals? Well, as Luang Phaw John profused, plants are living too, so you have to blur the lines at some juncture, also monks can only survive on the food that is provided to them by the laypeople, so you essentially have to eat what you get. Similarly, as one of the many precepts of being a monk, you shouldn’t overly enjoy the food you eat, so decadent treats and meals are sometimes refused in favor of porridge or something bland. Luang Phaw John’s story is quite an amazing one; his son traveled to Thailand as a young twenty-something and ended up ordaining as a Dhammakaya Monk. Many years later he disrobed and returned to the states to teach meditation to laypeople but before doing so he inspired John to join the Sangha himself. John, being a college professor at the time gave away all his belongings and possessions, gave his savings and sizable trust find back to his family and at the age of 62 with a freshly shaven head, face and eyebrows, ordained as a Monk and plans to stay for life.
Buddhism, is a complex religion explained in a complex language (Sanskrit and Pali), but a simple summary would be that it involves two major branches, Mahayana and Theravada. Within Theravada Buddhism there are essentially 3 types of Monks and serveral different methods of practicing meditation. POP House is focused on the Dhammakaya method and disciplines. In my estimation, Dhammakaya Buddhism is a fairly newer sect and one of the fastest growing, they believe in reincarnation, Karma, Hell and Nirvana (heaven) and use a technique of meditation called, the Middle Way. The common threat that is shared by all Buddhists is the Triple Gem: the Dhamma, the Buddha, and the Sangha. The Dhamma or Dharma sort of like the Holy Spirit for Christians, in that it is the life force or energy that allows someone to attain enlightenment. A Buddha is someone who has attained supreme enlightenment and become one with the Dhamma. The Sangha are the Monks, those who ordain and pledge themselves to purity and making the world a better place through meditation and good merit, seeking Nirvana for themselves. An interesting lesson Luang Phaw Oszey told me was that in order for Siddharta Gautama to become Buddha over 2,500 years ago, the final step was a lesson in humility, he had to give up his desire for enlightenment (Nirvana) in order to become fully enlightened and connected with the Dharma.
The Monks of POP House made it clear that they were not out to convert any of us to Buddhism or even teach us about their religion. Their goal was to teach us how to properly and effectively meditate through the methods of the Middle Way used by Dhammakaya Monks. Unlike other methods of Meditation that focus on breathing or an outside object, Dhammakaya focuses on putting the mind into the center of the body, visually interpreted as a shining sphere of light or clear crystal ball, that will eventually turn inward though a pinpoint of light and allow your mind to free and be replaced with inner peace of varying levels. Many aids are used to attain the, “centered mind”, such as breathing exercises and a focus on relaxing every part of the body. Most importantly is your posture, preferably the cross legged Lotus position, right leg over left and right hand over left with your palms up and right index finger lightly touching your left thumb. After lightly closing your eyes and relaxing your body, you begin to visualize a small object in front of you (usually a clear ball or sun or disk), you then move that object under your right nostril, up to your right tear duct (left for the ladies), to the center of your brain, down to the roof of your mouth, down to your throat, down to your belly button, then into the 7th and final position: your center, typically two fingers above your belly button in the middle of your body. There the object stays and with your focus and concentration it shines with light and ultimately turns inward to give you inner peace. All that being said, I did follow the instructions and practiced many times under the tutelage of my two Monk counselors, but I’m not sure what I really felt. At times it did it did feel that I was slowing my thoughts and even not thinking at all, but more commonly I struggled with what Luang Phaw Oszey called, “monkey mind”, when you just can’t keep your focus and you find yourself dwelling on irrelevant thoughts and jumping from one thought to another. Proper meditation takes years of practice and I was pleased that I learned the proper methods for achieving it and possibly feeling a hint of what it’s really like to attain an inner calm and become the controller of your thoughts and emotions.
You don’t necessarily stop yourself from thinking, that is nearly impossible, rather, you become kind of a third person in the room, watching your thoughts come into your mind and then swiftly pass out of it. Your goal is to not dwell on any particular thought so that ultimately the mind in the center of your body turns inward and allows yourself inner peace. In advanced levels of Dhammakaya meditation supposedly some monks have visions and are able to see their past lives and the past lives of others as well as receive information to their future lives and their ultimate quest for Nirvana and permanent heaven. I was told that in advanced levels, achieved through practice and aided by following the monastic precepts, your meditation can have effects on the outside world. Everything from curing cancer to avoiding the Cuban missile crisis, some Buddhists claim that it was because a group of Monks were busy meditating positive vibrations toward peace and harmony.
An interesting story I was told regarding Lama initiation was that in India monks would be required to dip their robe into the frozen ice cold waters of a Himalayan lake and then wrap it around them as they sit and meditate in the freezing temperatures overnight. In the morning, through the use of meditation, the Monks robe should be completely dry and some say they are even sitting in a puddle of water from the melted snow around them. Demonstrating the energy that can be generated though powerfully focused meditation.
In summary, after leaving the confines of the retreat and returning to civilization and all its sins, I have come to really appreciate the knowledge I gained on the retreat. I was able to get away from the noise and quiet myself, my only concern each day being how effective my next meditation session would be. I feel that I learned that meditation is certainly not exclusive to Buddhism, in fact, it would be useful in all religions in my opinion. You are allowing yourself to clear your mind and de-stress, and if it’s your goal, allow yourself communication with god, much like prayer, you have to stop thinking about yourself and your life in order for God to be able to speak to you. However, it does lead me to lots of confusion regarding who is living in more disillusion: the Sangha or the rest of us.
I would also like to make note that this was the hardest blog post I’ve had to write to date. Somehow I just couldn’t accurately describe this experience, and I still feel I have done a subpar job. Hopefully this mess above gives you some semblance of what it was really like, but if not, at least I tried. Below are some pictures of my time spent there as well as some pictures taken while touring the Wat Phra Dhammakaya, one of the largest religious complexes I’ve ever seen and certainly the most impressive. The Vatican ain’t got nothin on Wat Phra Dhammakaya.

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My sleeping arrangements.

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POP House is situated on a river filled with huge catfish, snakehead, and monitor lizards.

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Typical Thai Breakfast.

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“The Whites”, not to be confused with the Big Lebowski reference.

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The Meditation Room / Classroom.

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Gardens at POP House.

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Lunch. Monks are always served first by the men and then the woman. You say the Pali word, “satu”, after handing the plate to the monk, meaning: “rejoice in your merit”.

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Doing my own dishes for the first time in a month.

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Me and Luang Phaw John.

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Artistic interpretation of the inner sphere.

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Baby squirrel.

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The retreat group with some staff and Monks that showed us around Wat Phra Dahammakaya.

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Photos of Wat Phra Dammakaya. The compound comprises at least 3 of these large spaceship looking domes, the last one shown being comprised of 100,000 smaller Buddha statues. Group meditation ceremonies of 100,000 attendees are held frequently. The final picture is interesting because this is one of a pair of pillars in front of the dome that are supposedly made of a substance not of this world (meteor?) and they had to be covered up due to people’s infatuation with meditating towards them.

Trekking in Northern Thailand, Day 3

Day 3

The final day of our trek I awoke a bit later than expected. I had fallen into a deep sleep I supposed, perhaps due to the previous two days of hyperactivity. I felt sticky and groggy, so first things first I headed to the creek shower for a quick splash of ice cold water to the face. Almost everyone had already risen and were gathered around the community table sipping instant coffee, tea, or sugar water (Imogen). I joined the group, but didn’t really contribute to any conversation until I’d had at least 2 cups of coffee. Soon breakfast was served; Eggs, omlette style, toast and fresh pinapple. We even brought out a few leftover lychees that hadn’t been taken over by the hoards of ants overnight. As we ate I happened to glance into the kitchen/sleeping area where the two local women and Johnny Walker slept and cooked. To my astonishment, one of the women was cleaning and picking the fur off what appeared to be a dead rat. She and I locked eyes for one nervous second and she shot me a smile to suggest, “yeah, it’s a rat I’m eating for breakfast, I can tell you are shocked white boy”. Growing up in a community where squirrels were regularly consumed, I really wasn’t all that surprised, just interested in how she was going to prepare her jungle rat. I watched her chop it up and throw it into a pot over the fire along with some shredded leafy greens. A rat stew perhaps?

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After breakfast, Johnny gave us some personal time to mill around and let our food settle. I spent the majority of that time testing out the set of handmade slingshots the locals had set out for our entertainment. A few plastic water bottled tied to a distant tree limb provided the targets and the ammunition were simply the bounty of pebbles on the ground. I will proudly admit that I became fairly proficient, hitting the target a number of times, my personal best being 3 in a row. Johnny on the other hand, hit 7 in a row. Johnny also showed us about 3 pounds of local mushrooms he had dug up from underground and intended to sell that the famous Chiang Mai Sunday market.

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Soon enough it was time to resume hiking. Johnny told us today’s hike would be a 49 minute jaunt down the creek until we hit the river (Johnny tended to end all his estimations with a 9, I believe because the current Thai King is King Rama the 9th? Just another Johnnyism). We hit the trail and had a pleasurably flat hike along the stream, coming across bamboo groves and some impressive hardwoods. Fairly soon we started seeing signs of civilization once again. A PVC pipe here, a motor bike there, soon enough were full blown riverside elephant camps and rafting put-ins. When we reached our designated put-in for rafting, we dumped our packs and valuables into the back of a pickup truck and walked down to the riverside.

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Lifejackets and helmets were selected and a short tutorial was given by our eccentric river guide. We split up into two rafts, essentially youngsters and “experienced”, myself in the latter group. I was placed up in the front of the boat along with Ollie (one of the Brits) and behind me was Gabby (Ollie’s girlfriend), opposite James and finally Nimisha and the guide, who was quite the amateur comedian. Since this wasn’t my first rodeo when it came to whitewater rafting I was ready to roll and it wasn’t a long wait until we started hitting some whitewater. Apparently the water level was a little low, so there were many rocks and obstacles to avoid, but the rapids were quite akin to a longer version of the Natahala with the muddy consistency of the French Broad. Truth be told I felt safe the entire time but it was an exhilarating ride with a lot of great moments and of course the obligatory splash-fights with the raft full of youngsters. We even had a calm section where we took a swim (or float). Once the rapids had calmed down and the rivers slowed to a manageable pace, we transitioned to authentic bamboo rafts that were used in olden times by the Thai river people. I would liken the bamboo rafts to a bit of a gondola ride, wherein we sat two by two and a “driver” stood at the back with long pole to push and steer (minus he Italian crooning). The bamboo rafts are lashed together with more bamboo, a very versatile plant to be sure, although these rafts did acquire a more modern touch, for added safety strips of motorcycle tire were also used to secure the bamboo shafts together. So, keeping score, we used bamboo for huts, walking sticks, bowls, chopsticks and now rafts.

After our Huck Finn cruise we walked back up the riverbank to have our final lunch. Pad Thai was served and we were allowed a proper shower and change of clothes at a small picnic area near the river. Johnny Walker was able to meet up with a few of his fellow guide buddies where we were informed that they actually call him Johnny “Wanker”, the Thais and the Brits really got a kick out of this, hand gestures a-plenty.
We took a group picture and gave Johnny a sizable tip for all he had done for us over the course of 3 days. “Oh my Buddha” he proclaimed one last time before he then herded us back into a covered truckbed for transportation back home to our respective Guesthouses. Once back in civilization it was an immediate hot shower, promptly followed by a Thai massage and a good ol’ American style burger with a coconut shake, seemingly always more gratifying when following a camping trip.
I had a great time trekking in the mountains of Chiang Mai with many experiences I will never forget and making some friends that I believe will stay in touch and perhaps be valuable contacts when I travel to other countries. I highly recommend a trek of any length to anyone visiting northern Thailand, just make sure to pack smart, pack light and ensure that the trek you choose fits your experience, athletic ability and comfort level with the outdoors. As Shakespeare once wrote, “A rose by any other name still smells as sweet”, I find this to even be true with respect to Trekking in Thailand and Backpacking in my native homeland.

Fin.

Trekking in Northern Thailand, Day 2

Day 2

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I awoke with a hangover (blame the German waterfalls) and stumbled out into the daylight for breakfast, but not before carefully shaking each of my shoes to check for scorpions, as I had been instructed to do the day before. Mexican showered then breakfast; Instant coffee (lots of it), a boiled egg, pineapple, and toast with butter and jam. Hangover fading, heat and humidity rising, we set off on our Trek for the day down the mountain to seek waterfalls. Early on in the trekking, Johnny Walker kept stopping and walking off into the bamboo thickets with his machete mumbling something about sticks. Many of us guessed chopsticks for lunch? No, he wanted to prepare each of us a walking stick. Myself, and some others included, thought this just a frivolous exercise by our guide as just a helpful gesture. “I don’t need a walking stick”, I thought to myself, I hike all the time. I soon realized why the walking stick was necessary; the trail proceeded straight down at more than a 45% decline on slick red mud. Have Thai trailblazers not heard of switchbacks?

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Down and down we went, the foliage getting thicker and the heat/humidity rising as we descended into bamboo thickets and leafy underbrush. As we walked, we chatted amongst ourselves and found that many of us shared common interests in music, online entertainment and sports. At last, I began to hear the all too familiar faint sound of rushing water in the distance. Before we knew it we were crossing a small stream and the roar of a massive waterfall was rattling our eardrums. The waterfall was multi-tiered and ending in a waist deep pool perfect for cooling off after the hour-long steep hike we just finished. Several of my fellow trekkers shied away at the chilly water, but not me, as my upbringing in western North Carolina would suggest, my inner “hillbilly” came out and I jumped right in, being at home in ice cold mountain streams such as Sliding Rock or Deep Creek back in NC.

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After everyone had sufficiently cooled off and rested, we were called over to a small bamboo hut for a lunch that Johnny had prepared. Noodles with egg and vegetables, but served in a unique fashion; Johnny had made each of us a trough from a large bamboo stalk he chopped down minutes before.

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I finished my lunch rather quickly and began to wander around the waterfall area once again. Upon gazing upward to the trees I noticed that many were bearing small red clusters of red fruit, lychee! Along the entire journey so far I had noticed the remnants of crushed lychee underfoot and the common smell of rotting fruit from time to time, but I had yet to actually see the fruit sprouting fresh from the tree. My curiosity got the best of me and I tried to climb a tree to grab one of these little red balls. I managed to snag one and carried it over to show Johnny and ask if it was indeed OK to eat. He said yes and apparently I had started something, because at that point Johnny asked me to come along with him as we proceeded to harvest a butt-load of these delectable fruits. My method of leaping and grabbing the low hanging branches amused Johnny, so he showed me the more efficient way of crafting a bamboo pole with a fork at the end, which he used to then hook the thin branch at the end of the fruit and twist so that the entire cluster of fruits came down with ease. I tried on my own with great success and brought back many to share with my still lunching trek-mates. At that point, “it was on like Donkey Kong”, and everyone wanted a piece of the action. So much so that Johnny ended up climbing the lychee tree like a Gibbon to snap off full branches (but not before murmuring a quick prayer and uttering his favorite phrase – “Oh my Buddha”). Sweet lychee, fresh from the tree. I’d never had anything so delectably tasty In recent memory that I believe I ate myself sick from our bounty.

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Bellies full once again and fingers sticky from lychee juice, we set off down the riverbed in search of waterfall number 2 of the day. At this point in the trek I tended to lag behind on purpose in order to separate myself from the group and enjoy a little personal time while hiking and enjoying my surroundings. This, solo hiking, was a little trick I learned on my first 50 mile hike on the Appalachian Trail as a boy scout and it has stuck with me as one of the best ways to enjoy nature and free your mind to wander. It was during this solo time that I realized once again that I was home. This creek-side trail, these waterfalls, the overhanging greenery and chirping of birds was all too familiar. Instead of pine, birch and rhododendron, it was banana, mango and lychee trees surrounding me but the feeling of being in nature and doing what I’ve always loved to do was the same. Indescribable joy, I felt like a kid again, hiking the ever familiar Graveyard Fields upper waterfall trail. I was skipping along from rock to rock, twirling my bamboo walking stick and singing my favorite songs aloud before I knew I had caught back up with my fellow Trekkers, all looking a bit concerned about me and asking me if I was OK, since I was lagging so far behind. I just said “yeah I’m fine”, with a smile (not bothering to tell them that this was just a normal weekend activity for me, at risk of sounding like the boastful American stereotype). My second realization was that we had all stopped to view and swim at the second waterfall. An even more stunning cascade of water stood before us and an enterprising local had set up a little bamboo hut selling beers, water and snacks. Swimming, relaxing and photo-shoots ensued.

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Cooled and refreshed once again, our trek-weary group had only a short hike before we reached our camping spot for the night. After leaving the waterfall we arrived at a series of huts about 30 minutes downstream. We were shown around our accommodations for the night by the two Thai women who lived there and acted as our hosts. This was no hill-tribe village, this was much more basic and much less comfortable. “No worries”, I thought, normally I would be lugging around a 60 pound pack, setting up my own tent and building my own fire had I been home, so this was almost luxury for the wilderness. I can’t say that all my trek-mates shared the same sentiment.

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After taking some time to wash up with the stream water shower and relax our tired feet, it was time for dinner. Another two tasty dishes were severed family style over rice; spicy chopped greens with minced chicken and a slow cooked cucumber and veggie curry, followed by some leftover lychee for desert.

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After dinner, as it grew dark, we were all fairly pooped from the previous two days exercise, so we took it easy on the Chang beer and mainly sat around chatting about cultural differences in beer and similar tastes in music festivals. At one point, another Thai male entered the camp, carrying an impressive looking, but rather ancient muzzle-loader rifle. Johnny tried to explain that he was going out to hunt some sort of squirrel or rat, and the gentleman fired off a round from his rifle with a deafening blast, for demonstration. As we were all headed off to bed, we weren’t without our own animal encounters that night. First, was the typical cat that preferred to sleep inside our hut and nuzzle up to the French-Canadian couple. Second, and more surprising, was the 5 foot long snake that almost crawled across the feet of Leo (one of the German boys) as he was brushing his teeth just outside of our hut. Johnny heard our commotion and quickly jumped into action to bash the snake to death with a bamboo stick. He later told us that this was a very poisonous variety of snake.

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All of us a bit more nervous, we headed into the hut, tucked the mosquito nets tightly around us and drifted off to sleep.

To be continued….