Cliffhanger

Rock climbing is much more than an activity on Railay beach, it is a passion. Climbers flock to this renowned site for the stunning limestone cliffs on both land and sea. Professional climbers from Europe and North America come here toting cameras seeking sponsorship and fame while the less individualistic Thai (and Malaysian) locals simply climb for the love of the sport. A visitor to Railay can sign up for many different climbing courses and excursions. Full-day, Half-day, 3 day, full belay, soloing and more.
There are also numerous places to climb without using a guide. My friends and I chose to do some very adventurous hiking/climbing when wendecided to seek out a secluded lagoon that we spotted on map of the area the day before. We took a short walk from our hotel to the vertical trailhead and began our ascent. Barefoot and shirtless, we were thinking this would be a quick 30 minute round trip. Thailand is notorious for a lack of signage or warnings (Dad you would be furious). Helmets? Waivers? Warning signs? Never. In Thailand common sense and luck determine your fate.
Despite not having a guide or harnesses, there are many spots where ropes have been secured for assistance to free climbers, however, the maintenance and slickness of these ropes are tricky variables. Danger be damned, we would not be thwarted, so up we went, using dirt, tree, root, rope and rock to pull ourselves to the top.

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We came upon the first waypoint, a cliffside view of the entire Railay beach area…stunning.

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But our quest was for the lagoon, so we continued. We walked along the rim of the precipice before we reached an obvious area for descent into what appeared to be our lagoon crater. There were no ropes here but the grade wasn’t quite vertical so down we went. We descended about 300 vertical feet into thick jungle only to find that at the bottom was nothing but swamp. “maybe it’s just low-tide for the lagoon”, we reasoned, and back up we went.

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Upon reaching the top, I was feeling quite accomplished and worn out from renewing my climbing skills (Climbax of Asheville would be proud). As we took the trail back I chanced to take a small detour trail which upon further exploration, led to another giant yet deeper crater in the limestone and jungle. Peering down over the edge, I could see the blue-green waters of a lagoon! I called the boys over for a look at the more technical and treacherous climb down. Our egos would not be denied this lagoon, despite bare feet, slick mud and tired muscles.

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What followed were about 10 adrenaline packed brushes with near death as we climbed down 3 vertical-plus overhangs with only our hands and bare feet and the occasional slippery knotted rope between life and a bone crushing fall. This descent was also about 300 feet, but much more rocky and vertical. I was the first down to gaze upon one of the most gorgeous sights I’ve ever seen, a blue lagoon, surrounded by caves and stalactites. It was circular and completely enclosed with a diameter of about 100 feet.

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The more professional climbing experience I chose was deep water soloing with an outfit named Hot Rock Climbers. Deep water soloing involves climbing without harnesses (like we did the day before) however you are given proper climbing footwear, a guide and taken out to the limestone towers out in the deep waters of the Andaman sea.

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There were a total of 6 of us that day, Travis, John and I and a couple from Portland as well as our guide, an Australian named Michael who has been living and climbing in Railay for years. Our long-tail boat took us out to several different island rock formations where we attached a short bamboo ladder to access some great climbing spots. (see Michael attaching one of the more challenging ladders).

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We were ferried around to several of the rocky islands in the area, including, Poda, Chicken, Hong, and James Bond islands. At each stop we attached the ladder and started climbing. Once you made it to the top (or lost your grip) you fell into the deep waters below. Climbing and cliff jumping? This is soooo my bag baby! Below is a quick video of a fun traverse I tried, until I lost my grip and took a unexpected plunge.

We stopped for a fried rice lunch at a picturesque island beach and explored some inland caves which contained hoards of bats and guano (thank you Ace Ventura for introducing the word Guano into the vernacular of everyone in my generation). One of our group members from Portland (Bryan) explained that the acid rain reacts with the limestone to form the massive stalactites in an almost wax-like manner, that appear everywhere in this part of Thailand.

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After lunch was more climbing and some snorkeling until we were dead tired. We all escaped the day without injury, aside from sore feet, hands and a small cut on my forehead that i received from bumping into a stalactite. We sipped cold Singha and Chang and reflected on the literal heights we reached that day as the long-tail boat ferried us back to Railay.

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Here is a video of the highest and most exhilarating free climb/cliff jump ive ever done ( I was the only one of the group to do it).

I hope you all enjoy reading about this as much as I had fun doing it. I can imagine spending a good amount of time in Railay but alas I must move on to new adventures. As always, your comments and feedback are greatly appreciated. Hopefully I will make it to a larger city area sometime soon so that I can post longer videos as many have requested!

Go West Young Man

My apologies if some of you got a sneak peak of this post yesterday. It was unfinished and due to some technical difficulties with the WordPress app, a preliminary draft was accidentally posted. Having said that below is the complete and finished post.

It was difficult to do, but I have left Koh Tao and started my journey south to the western coast of Thailand. Our first pit stop was only an hour away, hopping to the island of Koh Phangan for the (in)famous full moon party, which obviously happens only once per month. I wont go into details because this is simply something you must experience for yourself and due to the abundance of water, fire and body paint I did not risk bringing along a camera for any photo or video documentation aside from this little video of me and the guys having fun at a pre-full moon foam bash in our hotel pool.


After a day of recovery and another long journey, my crew and I have made it to Railay beach.
The journey from Ko Phangan took us by barge to Don Sak, then by bus to Krabi, then a taxi to Ao Nang, a beach town on the western coast. Thailand’s western coast is at the southernmost tip of the country, bordering Malaysia. I have already noticed a slightly more Muslim influence in architecture and headscarves abound on the local women. The most stunning difference between this area of Thailand and the gulf island I was in previously is the topography.

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Lush jungles and gigantic limestone cliffs jut out everywhere, on land and in the ocean. The bordering ocean is the Andaman sea, with waters that are relatively calm (no waves for surfing), but should be great for kayak exploring and scuba. Amongst the westerners here the majority seems scandinavian and there is quite the noticeable Rastafarian culture, evidenced in the frequency of smokey reggae bars. We spent one night in Ao Nang since we were to exhausted to go through any further travel that day, so we crammed into a tight hotel room to get some rest. The following day we spent exploring a bit of Ao Nang, which we found a bit deserted and lackluster. Pushy salesmen abound, hocking everything from crappy jewelry to custom tailored suits. There was a Starbucks and a McDonalds, so the boys and I did momentarily enjoy some western comforts, but that got old rather quickly. At dusk, we decide it was time to ditch Ao Nang and head to Railay. Railay is not an island, rather a secluded peninsula, but it is still only accessible by boat since it is completely surrounded by the giganic limestone cliffs of a national preserve. We were able to get a long-tail boat to ferry us around the coastline for the 15 min boat ride from Ao Nang.
With our shorts rolled up and our bags securely on our heads we hopped off the long-tail boat into the surf up to our knees. We were walking up the west beach of Railay but we really had no clue where we were since it had fallen to darkness on our jaunt over from Ao Nang. Priority number one. Was finding a place to stay the night. Aside from a few beach bars the place was relatively quiet, by the big dark shawls around us we could tell that we were surrounded by either rock or jungle but there was no way to tell. We started trekking up a narrow walking path that then turned into a lightless dirt trail, time to bring out the headlamps. Guided by lamplight we walked along the path for about a quarter mile, bordered on our left by an giant overhanging limestone cliff and on our right by dense jungle foliage. FINALLY, civilization, a hotel reception area in the middle of a jungle. We walked up, drenched in sweat from our hike carrying 50 pound bags and were promptly served some sort of alcoholic fresh fruit juice in typical Thai hospitality. Promptly I booked us 3 rooms and we hit the showers and the sweet sweet comfort of air-conditioned slumber.
The next morning was a revelation, in the light I could realize my surroundings and it was a childhood fantasy come true, I was in Jurassic Park. Encircled by towering limestone cliffs covered in green. Jungle, rocky peaks jutting every which way and overhangs in with stalactites in abundance. Huge prehistoric looking palm fronds, buzzing colorful insects and for gosh sakes, MONKEYS. I half expected Jeff Goldblum to pop out and start explaining Chaos Theory to me.

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I spent the morning wandering around the small area in wonderment, to be honest I had been feeling slightly depressed and homesick before arriving in Railay but it always seems that the wonders of nature bring me out of that funk and allow me to realize how lucky I am. So far this place seems like Disney world for a full-grown boy scout such as myself who loves ecology and wildlife, but to top it all off for all you sun-lovers, not only are there mountains, but there is a beautiful beach here too.

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The main attraction of Railay is rock-climbing. What Koh Tao is to divers, Railay is for climbers, I now have to assume that Thailand has a perfect spot for any extreme sport adventurer. I met up with the guys and we took off on a hike around the area. Mangroves bordered the bay closest to our hotel, making it unsuitable for swimming but great for mosquitoes. A wooden and concrete boardwalk edged the waterline and long that path were several local shops for climbing, coffee, food, tattoos, massage and of course more Rasta bars. We went on a hike that ended up lasting us the whole day, exploring the natural wonders Railay has to offer. Caves, water, jungle, you name it. We even hiked/climbed down to a lagoon in the middle of a giant limestone mountain.In the evening the monkeys came out in search of food and play. You could generally get really close to them since they are used to people, but watch out, if you are holding anything resembling a candy or wrapper you will quickly be under siege and robbed.

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At night we were exhausted so we headed to the local watering hole for a few Singha and we were treated to some of the best fire dancers I’ve seen yet in Thailand. The mood is very relaxed here in Railay so that chill vibe lead us to our short trek back to our hotel beds.

As an aside, here is a little video from our journey into the hidden lagoon on Railay. It was quite the adventure getting there and I will elaborate on that descent in a later post that tells more about our climbing adventures in Railay.