5 months since my last post…5 months! I can’t believe how slack I’ve been, but life does have a knack for getting in the way. Since my last post I’ve skipped around 2 different jobs, moved to downtown Asheville NC and grown a pretty righteous beard. I have to say I’m in one of the happiest stages of my life and I do plan on keeping Asheville as my home base for as long as I can. Asheville is exactly where I want to live. For me it’s not some bohemian capital of the south or “cesspool of sin”, it’s a place that allows me access to all the passtimes I enjoy the most while still affording me a feeling of belonging in my native home. In short: being close to the mountains and my family give me all the joy I can possibly stomach.
I am posting today to renew my commitment to blogging. A year ago today I was halfway around the world and in a completely different state of mind, it seems like an eternity ago. My outlook on life is so much different after my experience and I beleive I accomplished what I set out to do in my 1-year mini retirement.
Now being back in the world of working-joes I don’t want to set aside my passion for writing. I plan to recommit my efforts to posting on the reg about my travels, outdoor adventures and general things that interest me. As I revive my efforts to write, I hope you all can revive your efforts to follow along, I appreciate it when you humor me. So, I should be posting some decent content here in the next week or so, but until then, to make up for my winter absence, here is a video I made of me and my sibs snowboarding in Mammoth, California last year – CLICK THIS YOU!
Tag Archives: travel
Train Troubles
I think everyone has that one city that only seems to deal them negative vibes, mine is Katowice. Close to the border with Czech Republic, Katowice is a Polish industrial town and the likely connection stop for any train transport headed through the western border. Being that it is such a hub, you would think they must have a pretty nice station right? Negative Ghostwriter. As I may have mentioned in my last post, Katowice train station is the pits. Confusing, dirty and full of unpleasant shady people, if you find yourself changing trains there, beware.
As I was making my way to Krakow, my nifty EuroCity train came to a halt in Katowice. From there I knew I had to purchase a connecting ticket for the 2 hour remainder of my journey. Sauntering up to the ticket counter I gave my best travelers smile and asked for a ticket to Krakow. In response to my request I received a cold blank stare. I slowly started to repeat myself but before I could finish the attendant was railing off some Polish, printing a ticket and requesting a sum of money. Of course she wouldn’t be bothered to tell me the train number, time of departure or platform, I was summarily shooed off so she could assist the next person in line. Using the sparse information printed on the ticket (most fields were left blank), I consulted the Arrivals/Departures chart and tried to make sense of the mess. Ultimately I went with my instincts and choose the platform I felt was correct in my gut, I’d been lucky so far. Boarding a much older train than the EuroCity (we’re talking 70s era) and taking an unassigned seat in a musty traditional 4 person train cabin, I settled in for what should be the final 2 hour leg. After about an hour, an attendant came by to punch my stub and the suprise in his face said it all, I had obviously gotten on the wrong train. He didn’t speak English, but his hand gestures indicating I was heading the opposite direction of Krakow told me all I needed to know. I gathered from his broken English that at the next stop I would be switching trains, obviously. What I didn’t realize was how quickly that next train would be departing the station. Slowing down for the next station and before the train had come to a complete stop, I was bring urged out the door by the attendant, frantically pointing and trying to express that I needed to get over to the train 2 platforms away. The quickest suggested method; literally jumping 4 feet down into the greasy train tracks and clambering over metal and concrete with my bag slung over my shoulder… 10 heart-pounding seconds later I made it into the other train just as the car was lurching forward. Relieved to have made it, but frustrated by my mistake, I found a seat and prepared for what would now be a 4 hour trip instead of 2 hours.
6 days later when it came time to leave Krakow, I was headed this time to see a friend in Ostrava, Czech Republic. A shorter journey than before, I approached the ticket counter brimming with confidence, but there it was again, an ominous connection in Katowice. Since there was no direct train with Ostrava, I had to book a ticket to Katowice and hope that I could get my ticket to Ostrava from there. A decent train and a fairly smooth ride to Katowice, so far so good. Once I reached Katowice I again approached the sour old crone in the ticket booth, this time she had pleasure of informing me that the only train departing for Ostrava would be at 11:57pm. At the time it was around 1:00pm. Since I was already there and had no other apparent option (Katowice is apparently technologically isolated as well, so no WiFi) I bought the ticket. Ostrava was literally only 2 hours away, but I wasn’t about to start hitchhiking. So now I had about 12 hours to waste in a small Polish town with no Internet and hardly any English, oh well, Ive had worse layovers in airports. I spent a few hours walking around the area to try a little sightseeing. Once my shoulders were sufficiently aching from the weight of my pack I stopped that nonsense and took a seat on a bench in a quaint little city park.
There I ended up staying for a good portion of my day, reading and people watching. It’s always interesting to watch people in a foreign country just going about thier business. There were moments I felt as if I was back in the States, but then a passing gypsy or doner kebap vendor would remind me I was still far from home. Needless to say, I got pretty darn bored by the end of that day and as day faded into night I sought refuge in a nearby restaurant. The one positive of the purgatory that was Katowice was that restaurant. I was the only customer and they didn’t serve beer (which at this point I really wanted) but I had the most incredible Polish pancakes stuffed with ham, strong cheese and mushrooms. They looked like burritos but they were far from it.
Finally, the witching hour had arrived and I boarded my midnight train to Ostrava. It was supposed to be only a 2 hour ride, putting me at my destination around 2am, just enough time to meet my friend Chris for some post-bar late night food. However, Katowice still wasn’t done messing with me. At around 1am I was waging war against the pull of sleep. I couldn’t afford to doze off and miss my stop in Ostrava. I tried music, reading and finally resorted to standing up in the train car. Coming down the home stretch I was starting to lose the battle with the sandman, then we came to an abrupt stop. I looked out the window to confirm that we were not yet in Ostrava and indeed, we were only in a dark train stop somewhere in the outskirts of town. We were stopped 10 minutes, then 20, then 40. When the delay mounted to 2 hours my curious confusion turned to outward rage, but I was too sleepy to do anything about it. Besides, there was literally no one around to ask, or punch. I surmise that this stop was in order to switch tracks and split the train, but an announcement confirming that would have been nice. 4am came around and finally I felt the forward movement of the train. From that moment it was only about 15 minutes to the final stop at Ostrava Hln. I could have walked…oh well, the sun was rising and I hadn’t slept in close to 24 hours. I was simply looking forward to laying down my pack and getting some rest. Hopefully I’ve seen the last of Katowice, but I get the feeling it’s going to be like a bad penny, considering I will be traveling back toward Poland in a few weeks…
How to get to Siem Reap (Travel Tips)
For those of you simply reading my blog for entertainment, this post is probably not going to interest you greatly. But you lucky few with the cojones to venture out to SEA will ultimately feel compelled to visit the ancient ruins of Angkor Archeological park in Siem Reap, Cambodia and may find this post helpful. Even though the distance may seem short compared to some jaunts within only Thailand, this particular journey is riddled with pitfalls. So this is the bit of travel advice I can offer to those wanting to make the trip. All those who have convinced themselves that that a trip to SEA is not possible, you can simply wait for my next post which will showcase pics and descriptions of all the amazing things you are cheating yourself out of.
My travel experience to Siem Reap was by land, which is also the most affordable way, but this path is laden with booby traps waiting to trip you up, some even government sanctioned. If you have the greenbacks, I’ve heard it’s much simpler to fly to Siem Reap, albeit more expensive. Most backpackers and flash packers will enter Cambodia much the same way as i did, with the horror that is getting there by land. The journey began smoothly enough in Bangkok. After a little online research I decided to take the train instead of the bus, and since I was in Khaosan the night before I certainly didn’t catch the early train. I opted for the 1:05pm train to Aranyprathet, realizing and accepting the fact that the border crossing into Cambodia closes at 8pm, so if the train was delayed (as they typically are ) I may be staying overnight in Aranyprathet or Poi Pet. Luckily the train faced no serious delays and I was at the Aranyprathet station by 7pm. It is at this point where you have to be smart and keep your head on a swivel. You will be approached by numerous tuk-tuk drivers who want to take you to the Poi Pet border crossing for anywhere between 20 and 80bht. You do have to take the tuk-tuk, but just beware, they will purposefully take you fake Cambodian Visa stands in hopes of getting a kickback from their friends that run those operations. It will most likely appear fishy from the get-go, so just refuse to exit the Tuk-tuk and ignore the tout that approaches you from the fake Visa stand. Request firmly that the driver take you to the real border crossing (or Night Market). You know you are in the right place when you see the proper government signs and channels for immigration to Cambodia. To assist you visually, the market will be on your left and the border crossing is right between the two huge casinos next to the market. Don’t get out of the tuk-tuk and don’t talk to anyone untill you see that gateway and those casinos. I arrived in as the sun was setting and as Obi-Wan Kenobi once said, “You will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy”. Seriously Poi Pet is terrifying, you are being approached by touts in all directions and there are literally rats scurrying from one trash heap to the next; just put the blinders on, stare straight ahead and do not acknowledge their existence. The first stop is the Thai customs, it’s indoors and you will see signs, no one needs to lead you there as you will enter via several guardrail channels under signage marked for immigration. They check your passport and send you speedily thru to the no-mans-land that is the Casinos. After leaving Thailand head directly to the Cambodian Visa building to get your visa. It will be on the right side of the street before the first casino. It should cost you $20 or 800bht and remember to bring a passport photo with you or else you will be charged an extra 100bht. Once you have the visa proceed past the casinos on the right side of the road and enter Cambodia where they will check your Visa and stamp your passport. Whew! But it’s not over yet, now you face the Next wave of scammers waiting to ferry you from Poi Pet to Siem Reap.
I heard from multiple sources that the best part about Poi Pet, Cambodia is leaving Poi Pet, I wholeheartedly agree. However, in your rush to get out, don’t make a hasty decision about your transportation to Siem Reap. There is a huge and well know government sanctioned bus scam, so avoid the buses or anyone offering to take you to a bus station. Your best option is to use good judgement and common sense to find a reputable cab driver that will take you directly from Poi Pet to your Hotel in Siem Reap (if you don’t have a hotel booked, just say the Pub Street). The cost for this cab ride should be somewhere between $20-$50 depending on the quality of the cab, after all it is a 2 hour drive. If traveling alone its best to try and find some others to split the cab fare with, try to find someone while in line during customs. I paired up with the only other English speaking couple crossing the border that night and we found a questionable, but not totally dodgy driver that offered us a ride in his Toyota Camry for $35. The 2 hour drive to Siem Reap went smoothly enough, until we got close to the town and the cab drive took an abrupt turn off the main road and into what appeared to be a shady tuk-tuk junction. He informed us that the tuk-tuk will take us from here to our hotel for free. We proceeded to inform him that this wasn’t the arrangement we agreed on, that he promised to take us all the way to the hotel. Again, just be firm and persistent, but don’t lose your cool. They will ultimately cave and do as they promised. This little hiccup is simply a way for the cab drivers to hook up their tuk-tuk buddies with business for the next day by having them ferry you the last few miles to your hotel and tell you how they can give you an Angkor tour the next day. Probably no harm done, but in the dark in Cambodia its best not to take chances.
Once you are in Siem Reap and ready to purchase a one day, 3 day, or one week pass to Angkor Archeological park, your best strategy is to purchase your pass on the day before you plan to start, at 4:45pm. So find a tuk-tuk driver around 4pm and negotiate a deal for the evening transportation of a few hours, it should only be around $5-$8. By purchasing your pass at 4:45pm the day before, you will get to visit the complex from 4:45 to 5:30 that evening for free, taking in a complementary sunset. I reccomend you take in that first sunset at the ancillary temple of Phnom Bakheng, saving the main Angkor Wat temple for a sunrise and subsequent mini-tour or grand tour via tuk-tuk on a full day. You want to be sure you get to the top of the Phnom Bakheng temple before the cutoff time of 5:30, so head straight there after getting your pass at 4:45. If you want to save you first sight of Angkor Wat for sunrise, simply avert your gaze and don’t look to the right as you head to Phnom Bakheng. It takes about 15 minutes to walk to the top where you should promptly get in line to climb the temple stairs to the top. Once you made it up top, before the 5:30pm cutoff, you will have to wait around an hour more for the sun to set. So grab a seat and relax with the rest of the crowd. It would be advisable to bring a water or snack with you and some sort of reading material.
Finally, when then sun drops below the horizon, you can climb back down the temple and find your tuk-tuk driver for the ride back to the hotel. The driver will try to sell you on his services for the next day and a mini or grand tour of Angkor, only take up the offer if you get a good vibe from him, since you can always take your pic of drivers the next day. You want a driver that speaks reasonably good English and has a decent knowledge of the temples in the park with their history history.
There ya go, that’s all you need to know to get to one of the great wonders of the world, if a dunce like me can do it without getting totally ripped off, so can you. If you plan on going back to Bangkok after Siem Reap (as I did), the journey back is a bit easier and you will have attained a new level of travel savvy after dealing with the entry. My recommendation is that you book a bus to take you to Poi Pet and no further. You can book these buses with your hotel or hostel and even at some of the travel agencies on Pub Street. They will offer you transportation all the way back to Bangkok, but the problem is that after Poi Pet you switch to a different bus and typically that bus will make frequent and mandatory snack, souvenir and dinner stops at their buddies shops all the way back to Bangkok, stretching a 5 hour drive into an 8 hour one. Once you get dropped off at Poi Pet, brush off the touts (you should be good at this by now) and head straight to Customs. This way, Cambodian customs are a breeze, they take your fingerprints and send you through, the bad part is Thai Customs. The lines are long and the inspection is through, since there is a problem with many illegal immigrants from Cambodia. It takes at least an hour in most cases, 2 hours in mine since it was pissing rain and the power went out halfway through the process. After you are through Customs, proceed to have a tuk-tuk take you to the “Government Bus Station”, be clear about this as they may try and take you to a privately owned place. You know you are at the right bus station when you see the 7/11 on the corner and behind it there is the enclave where you buy your bus ticket. 220 bht will get you on a bus directly to Bangkok and the last bus leaves at 4pm. The bus I rode was extremely high quality and I was very pleased. They even give you complementary water, coffee, snack and kiwi juice box! The bus will take about 5-6 hours and drop you off at Mo Chit station in Bangkok, which is accessible by BTS and Taxi.
Good Luck and enjoy the Journey!
Chiang Mai
Imagine Asheville, North Carolina in the summer (for those who can), the city of my birth and hometown for 18 formative years. Rolling green mountains, haunted by mists in the early and late in the day, a vibrantly diverse but quaint city center and a haven for outdoor enthusiasts and extreme sports addicts. Now add to that image: elephants, tigers, delectable Thai cusine and everything for one-thirtyith the price. Ladies and gentleman, this is no fantasy, this is Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand.
Close to the borders with Myanmar (Burma) and Laos, Chiang Mai is the second largest city in Thailand. With a population of around 160,000 but boasting close to one-million inhabitants in its sprawling low-profile urban area, the citys epicenter is still surrounded by remnants of square brick fortress walls and a moat (which is apparently good for fishing) since in the early centuries Chiang Mai was constantly at war with Burma and in the 1500s was temporarily occupied by the Burmese.
My Chiang Mai experience has been a good one, so there will most likely be several posts dedicated to my weeklong stay here. It all started with disembarking from the train and then deciding to walk from one end of town to the other (where my $30, 4 star, pre-booked hotel lie in wait). The climate was a few degrees cooler than Bangkok so walking and sightseeing seemed to be a suitable option, even though I was toting my 50lbs of luggage.
Much like Asheville, I crossed the muddy Ping river that lie adjacent to the city and I could see the misty green peaks in the distance that reminded me of mine own Blue Ridge Mountains. Soon I came upon the city center’s eastern gate, or what was left of it.
Perusing the streets and many Wats I came across, I was surprised at both the lack of tall buildings and apparent age of the structure that were still within the confines of the old walls.
It took me a good 30 mins to walk from east gate to west gate and then another 15 to make it to my hotel, The Furama Chiang Mai. First, a quick review of The Furama. Excellent overall, well deserving of the 4 stars. Huge room, panoramic view of the city, western bathroom, 2 separate pools (including a rooftop pool), decent fitness center and the coup de grace: free high speed WiFi. All for the neat price of $30 per night.
Over the course of the subsequent 3 day 2 night stay at The Furama, I spent most of my time catching up with online business, writing and hanging out with the Australian ladies I met on the train.
Each night consisted of a famed Chiang Mai, “Night Bazaar”. Saturday night was the standard nightly street market with local stalls set up outside the city gates east side. Most of the goods were the typical knock-off handbags, watches, shoes, jewelry and EPL jerseys. The difference in Chiang Mai is that there are serious deals to be had if you are an experienced haggler. I like to think I showed the Aussie girls a few good sales tactics and helped them get season 6 of Greys Anatomy for around $12. We soon tired of getting hassled by vendors (at least we weren’t being asked to go to Ping-Pong shows) so we headed off to a famed rooftop bar for some beverages and I had the privilege of buying the girls their first Thai bucket drink.
The real action comes around every Sunday night in Chiang Mai, when inside the walls of the city the center streets are shut down to traffic and a street market of mammoth proportions takes place.
There are vendors selling handmade goods and souvenirs as well as all the lovely northern Thai food, fruits, vegetables and meats. There is even a small carnival set up for children that includes a mini ferris wheel and a bounce house. There was a noticeable lack of the typical street vendors hocking the off-brand touristy goods, I think they relegate those schemesters to outside the city walls on this night. The Sunday night bazaar is obviously a big attraction for tourists to visit, but for the most part this is a celebration for the Thai locals of Chiang Mai and the surrounding areas to come together, sell their goods to one another and see and be seen about town. There are also a variety of street performers, singers, dancers and here is a video of a full band:
Around 10pm the night bazaar starts to close down and the people go home. Westerners (or party loving Thais) can then go to a number of bars operated by expats from around the globe. There is an American themed saloon (featuring last years NFL games), a UN Irish Pub, a Mikes Burgers, and a bar called The Wall, dedicated to Pink Floyd.
When Monday comes around all returns to normal and the people and tourists of Chiang Mai pick back up their hiking boots, mountain bikes, kayak paddles, climbing harnesses, etc., and go about enjoying the natural wonders of nature that Chiang Mai has to offer. I have been enjoying these wonders myself and I will be posting more about the adventures, jungles, cuisine and tigers of this beautiful area. Here is just a little teaser for you cat lovers 
C’mon Ride the Train
After the escapade that was Khaosan road, I was again tired of the hustle and bustle of the city. I wanted a change of atmosphere as well as a change of scenery. Seeing as this is Thailand, and it offers both serene beaches and picturesque mountains, the change I was looking for was within reach, well, about 800 miles of reach. I needed to head north to Chiang Mai, the second largest city in Thailand. So the question was: how do I get there?
I have always been fascinated by trains (not so much as to have a model in my basement, but my Uncle did) and it seemed like part of the 12 hour journey to Chiang Mai might go down smoother with a little sleep involved. These factors considered, I took the advice of the Quad City DJs and decided to just “c’mon” and ride the night train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai.
Upon arrival to Hua Lamphong train station in Bangkok I was directed to counter to purchase my ticket. I had done my research beforehand and knew that out of VIP, 1st Class, 2nd Class and Economy that I wanted a 2nd class ticket with air-con and a top bunk sleeper, since this would be an overnight train. The total cost for my 800 mile, 12 hour journey came to around 720 bht (~$25).
The train wasnt leaving for another few hours so I walked around snapping photos like a good little tourist and decided to snag a bit of food as well. The train station eatery was a bit of a cafeteria where you had to buy coupons first then order at your choice of food stall. Confused as I was, I looked to my left to see an almost equally bewildered western-looking girl. Between the two of us we worked out the procedure and she was kind enough to invite me to eat with her and her travel partner (I’m sure you Shielas are reading and you are my loves forever):
Over the course of fried rice with pork, I learned that these two ladies were Australians from Adelaide and we shared a penchant for Greys Anatomy and of all things, Carolina Basketball!!! Coincidentally the Aussies and I were on the same train, so when the time came to board we herded into our respective purple train cars.
The cars were surprisingly roomy and comfortable since it appeared as though the train wasn’t even close to fully booked. I passed the first few hours gazing out the window as the filthy streets of Bangkok turned into countryside and getting my nose crammed into my Kindle.
Before I knew it, the Australians had gotten bored themselves and I had been invited back to their train-car to play cards and drink Sangsom & cokes. They had their own version of a popular college card game we affectionately call, “Asshole”, back in the states. A few of the rules were different and I can’t quite recall the name they called it, but the result of the game was the same, we all ended up a bit buzzed. After cards we took a trip down to the restaurant car and I ordered up some curry and a Singha. The food was served cold (probably because it was 10pm) but it was much better than airplane fare. Finally after more late night chit-chat with the ladies it was off to catch a bit of shut-eye before dawn. I crawled up into my top bunk, yanked the curtain closed and let the combination of Fleet Foxes and the swaying train lull me to sleep.
I awoke promptly at 6:45am expecting our arrival in Chiang Mai at 7:15, as the ticket stated. I headed off to the restaurant car for a quick breakfast of Jok and coffee.
As 7:15 came and went, I decided to ask someone if I had missed my stop. “No” they replied, “the train is simply on a 3 hour delay”. 3 hours? When did I miss this? Oh well, I decided I’d better use the facilities and get quick Mexican shower (sink shower) to freshen up. Here’s a sneak peak at the quality of WC the train had to offer:
The delay was no big deal as the scenery was beautiful to watch race by my window. We finally got to our stop and disembarked. After a quick goodbye to my Australian friends from the previous night and a promise to meet up with them again once I got settled in town, I hit the mean streets of Chiang Mai.
For you video-philes here’s one of the train put to the sweet tunes of, “Trip”, by Vacationer (seriously, no puns intended):
Housecleaning
Greetings my fellow Americans (and the internationals I’ve met along the way), this is my state of the vagabond address. I am writing to you from my porch in Koh Phi Phi, watching the sun set.
I will have to move indoors soon since swarms of mosquitoes will be out in force when that big glowing disk moves below the horizon. I have been in Thailand for close to 3 weeks now and I already feel as if I have some blog housekeeping to do. I want to catch you up on a few thoughts, pics, and goings-on that I have neglected in my previous postings.
First, my current location, Koh Phi Phi (pronounced pee pee), the small island off the coast of western Thailand, slightly south of the more renowned tourist destination of Phuket (pronounced foo-ket). Phi Phi’s local Thai population is 80% Muslim, but i don’t believe there are many actively practicing Muslims here due to the raging beach parties this island hosts on a nightly basis. There is one Mosque and a noticeable lack of the requirement for the removal of shoes. I have been here for 2 nights and am staying at the Tara Inn. The Tara inn is low budget at best (numerous cockroaches and geckos share my room with me), but the hillside view is amazing. My surroundings sort of remind me of a Brazilian favela.
Down below are the bustling sidewalks of Koh Phi Phi’s urbanized area. The area is an interconnected web of narrow stone walkways, as automobiles and scooters are not allowed on the island. The cobblestones are tightly lined with markets, bars, food stalls, dive shops, tour agencies, hostels and mostly shallow storefronts selling the same t-shirts and trinkets the tourists love to buy. Koh Phi Phi is definitely a young backpacker port of call, tons of twenty somethings are roaming the streets at all times and you can hardly notice an ounce of Thai culture left on the small island. While the westernization for the sake of tourism is depressing to me, i realize that it is vital to the Thais and many Malaysians that live here, since this area was ravaged by the big Tsunami in 2004. Many structures are still damaged and there are empty lots here and there where nothing has been rebuilt. Almost every store or restaurant I enter has pictures of the local owner picking through the post-flood rubble. To my knowledge this was one of the hardest areas hit by the carnage. On a positive note, this Island was the filming location for the Hollywood movie, “The Beach”, starring Leo Decaprio. The nearby beach of Koh Phi Phi Ley (Maya Bay namely) was the setting for Dicaprio’s hidden island paradise (and hippie commune) in the film. Keeping things positive, as I’ve been writing the sun has set and colored the bay a gorgeous purple.
As far as food goes, I am trying to keep my eating habits regular. Sometimes I eat twice a day, sometimes eight times a day. It is common for newcomers to SEA to lose 10 to 15 pounds at first but I think I have reminded stable since I eat more carbs here than I did back in the States, although all the scales I step on measure my weight in Kilograms or Stones, so its hard to know exactly. I try to eat local whenever I can and I find that breakfast is the hardest meal to eat local since Thais dont have many breakfast options other than the rice porridge, Jok, or fried rice with a fried egg on top. I have had just about every Thai dish that appears on a common menu. Lots curries, soups, rice, omlettes and the bounty of condiments. Here are a few more food pics I snapped along the way:
These are some pig legs (I think) in one of the many roadside markets in Bangkok.
The deliciously spicy Tom Yum soup with shrimp.
JB with fried rice, traditionally served in a pineapple down in south Thailand.
Typically called “no-name”, these are basically deep fried vegetable fritters with Thai chili sauce.
Mussels in a spicy brown gravy sauce. The shells are blue in color on the edges and they are a bit smaller than the ones in Charleston.
Just to clean house, here are a few pictures of some things I deemed noteworthy but not enough for a full blog post:
One of many large Geckos found all over Koh Tao, this one was probably a foot long and was hanging outside my hotel door.
MBK, the huge mall in Siam Bangkok where you can buy any kind of knock-off product, most popularly iPhones, iPads, and Havaniana sandals, for dirt cheap.
A cave in the limestone cliffs next to the my hotel in Railay. It was filled with bats.
A hike up a waterfall the guys and I went on in a Koh Phangan national park.
A Mosque in Ao Nang, southern Thailand.
A few shots from one of the many boat ferry rides I’ve taken to get around the islands. Even Buddhist Monks get their travel on.
Ok! I feel much better after getting these words off my brain and pics off my hard drive, I hope you enjoyed them also. Barring any travel mishaps, my next post should be about my upcoming visit to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
Happy Turtle
Koh Tao, which in translates in English to Turtle Island is so named because of the many sea turtles that come to lay their eggs on the white sand beaches here. Located in the gulf of Thailand, the water is extremely calm and while I am disappointed there are no waves to surf the upside is that this island offers some of the best diving and snorkeling on the planet. Most of the tourists here are Brits and Aussies, Americans are definitely few and far between. It’s strange being the minority but I am really enjoying the experience and the attention that comes with being a novelty. The local Thai islanders are extremely laid back and friendly, most speak decent broken English and they are patient enough to even allow you to express yourself through hand gestures and charades when the language barrier proves too tricky. I wanted to share a few of my experiences in Koh Tao so far in order to give you a taste of the island lifestyle.
First, my living situation. Accommodations in Koh Tao are relatively basic, bungalows, community housing, beach huts or just a hammock between two coconut trees. The going rate for a room with air-con and a lukewarm shower is about 1000 Bhat per night (about $33) but the rooms are definitely a far cry from my posh hotel in Bangkok. Since I had awesome buds with “connections” here I was able to get a scooter and a “luxury” place to stay my first night.
The next thing you should do if you are in Koh Tao is to get a traditional Thai massage. Unlike the massages I’ve had in the past, the Thai massage is a bit less formal but a lot more functional. It combines both deep tissue, full body stretching and copious amounts of Tiger Balm (an intense Asian version of IcyHot). Instead of your own private room, all the massages take place on the floor, alongside other customers. You are given a pair of linen Capri pants to wear and are instructed to lie down on one of the many pallets on the floor. The therapist then proceeds to go to work on you. They literally climb all over you in order to get the best positioning for the required massage or stretch. They use their hands, feet and elbows to work out knots and pop your joints in ways you wouldn’t think possible. At one point you are even instructed to place your head in their lap so they can massage your scalp, face and neck. There is also a bit of chiropractic work involved as they twist your torso or walk up and down your back until it makes a sound like jiffy-pop. It is really a great massage and a cool experience and at a price of 300 Bhat per hour ($10), I can honestly say its the best I’ve ever had and I don’t think any other massages will live up to it. Oh, and I can squelch any rumors about “happy endings”, these beefy farmers daughters are consummate professionals.
Then of course are the picturesque beaches and rocky outcrops that make up the landscape. Below are a few pics from the southern tip of the island, including a view of Shark Island, just one of many secluded dive spots:
As far a food goes, I am liking it better than Bangkok. Fresh fruit abounds and there are hundreds of restaurants serving up a myriad of cuisines. Due to all the expats on the island you not only have great Thai food but also lasagna made by Italians, sushi made by Japanese, curry and lassies made by Indians and much more. I’ve really enjoyed the Thai omlettes, they are not your typical breakfast omelette as these are usually lunch or dinner fare, and they usually contain minced chicken or pork with veggies, rice and the traditional thai condiments:
For beverages I won’t let a day go by without some sort of shake, my personal recommendation is the coconut or the mango, there is no sugar or syrups added and I have never tasted anything fresher. You can also opt for a fresh young coconut, straight out of the nut and extremely hydrating after those long nights out.
When the sun sets and the heat falls back a free degrees the island really comes alive. I was lucky enough to attend a Muay Thai boxing match and it was quite the experience to say the least. Makeshift bleachers, smokey atmosphere and traditional Thai and Burmese music. These guys may be small in stature, but even the 12 year olds could wipe the floor with me. Here is a video of the 150lbs weight class:
Once the fights are over it’s time to head out to the beach bars. Half sand, all open air and all pumping the latest Asian top 40 hits. Almost all the bars have “fire dancers” which are Thais or Burmese that swing balls of fire or swords of fire in mezmerizing fashion. Most of the fire dancers are just local guys doing it for fun and they will gladly give drunk tourists it he opportunity to try it out themselves. They wear their street clothes and mingle in and out of the bar goers. There is an obvious safety risk, but hey, this is Thailand where common sense rules and safety regulations are not heard of and surely there are no statistics kept on the number of severe kerosene burns. Here are some videos of a few guys from the Fish Bowl bar (yes, one is smoking a cigarette and the other is wearing a Cincinnati Reds cap):
The alcoholic drink of choice at all Thai beaches are called “buckets”, they are literally plastic buckets typically filled with Thai rum called Sangsum, Asian red bull and sprite. They are meant to be shared so you are given about 3-5 straws, all for the price of 200 bht ($7).
Good times abound and I will be sad to leave this island paradise tomorrow as we head to Koh Panyang for the infamous full moon party. however I have promised many locals (over a few buckets) that I would be making It back here before my journeys are over. I also have one more post in mind regarding Koh Tao and the treacherous roads filled with scooters, so keep an eye out for that one soon. In the immortal words of Ron Burgundy, “until next time, you stay classy, Planet Earth”.
The Journey to Koh Tao
My stint in Bangkok is now over and it’s time to move on to more azure pastures. I have decided to go to Koh Tao to meet up with a couple good friends from Asheville NC who have made it their home for the past 3 months. Koh Tao, which in English means Turtle Island, is a small island in the southern gulf of Thailand, closest to the larger tourist destination of Koh Samui. It’s a divers paradise with many coral reefs and dive shops. Since teleportation and tube technology are still a few years out, this means I have to make the journey in more traditional methods. I visited a local Bangkok travel agency to have it all arranged, what follows is my account of this not-so-fantastic voyage:
To book the exodus out of Bangkok I took the recommendation of my tuk-tuk driver (questionable move on my part), he set me up with the “renowned” (insert sarc-mark here) establishment named, “Amazing Grand Thai Travel Limited Partnership” whose slogan on their business card reads, “we care your life”. I knew the travel included something like 9 hours by train or bus and then a 3 hour boat ride to get to this small island paradise in the souther gulf of Thailand. The agency set the details and charged me 1600 bht (about 50 usd) for the total package. I though I was sittin pretty.
Follwing my travel agents instructions, I arrived at the designated bus stop promptly at 6pm. This bus stop was in a fairly seedy part of Bankok amidst some dilapidated housing and that can only be described as an authentically local slum. The street was littered with old car parts, stray dogs and here and there a pick up truck full of garbage. As 6pm passed and the sun began to set I put my faith in the relaxed nature of the Thai people and their tendency for tardiness. My mind couldn’t help but wander to the negative: was this the end of the line? Would I be abducted for the sex trade, have my organs sold on the black market or be forced into being a drug mule? Which option would I prefer?….think happy thoughts, think happy thoughts, think….and then, at around 7:15pm a passenger van rolled to a stop in font of my bench. The driver got out and railed off some indecipherable Thai, the only part I understood was “Koh Tao”. I was loaded into the van to find myself crammed like a sardine with 2 Russian couples and a pair of Brits. The Russians didn’t speak English and the Brits seemed way more confused that I was, so I just settled in and prepared for the 9 hour ride.
Not so fast. Within 15 minutes of being picked up we were being instructed to unload at yet another seedy street corner in downtown Bangkok. Like good little tourists we waited on the curb until a large double decker tour bus came careening around the corner and squealed to a stop in front of us. Loading up again into the top level of this bus I was immediately greeted by the unmistakeable smell of body odor and musty upholstery. I was seated next to another young traveler who introduced himself as Shaun, a South African from Cape Town. Shaun seemed to be a nice guy, but also one of the main sources of the BO smell. I found this to be rather common among the backpacker types that made up most of the passengers in this bus.
As the bus lurched onward we were privy to several bootlegged movies as we journeyed into the night. I chatted Shaun up for quite a while and found that we had quite a bit in common, especially our tastes in music and love for the outdoors. Shaun had just finished a tour of India and imparted some valuable wisdom of that area that I may get the opportunity to use if I survive this midnight cruise. After our gums got tired of flapping I laid back and decided to try for some shut-eye.
I was abruptly awoken by the sound of screeching breaks and the shouts of the driver yelling something about Koh Tao. Me and several others, including Shaun, were herded off the bus and directed to sit on yet another curb in the middle of nowhere Thailand at 3 in the morning.
After waiting a good 30 minutes, dwelling once again on if my harvested organs would perhaps be given to local Thais in need or shipped off to the Baltics, an army-style passenger truck came to a stop in front of my curbside crew. We loaded up once again, this time packed even more tightly into this open air vehicle, and went speeding off toward what I supposed would be the boat docks. It took the better part of an hour until we arrived at the Chumphon boat dock. It was pitch black but I could smell the salty air and didn’t have to be told we were near the ocean. Already at the dock station were another dozen or so travelers just as exhausted as I was. Somehow word got to me that the ferry boat would not be launching until 7am, so we had a good 3 hours or so to waste. There were an assortment of seating options, everything from cardboard on stacked car tires to ripped up old seats removed from minivans. Other travelers were sprawled about, some sleeping some playing games, some watching a hazy tv in the only thing that functioned as a building. I passed the hours by reading a little fiction while seated on a wooden bench. Slowly the sun began to rise and my surroundings became visible. The calm ocean, a dozen long-tail fishing boats, and several huge island rock formations rising out of the water just like you see in the travel books. Suddenly it felt like this journey was turning around as the night turned into day.
Once the sun was up, the call came out to board the ferry and the other travelers and I got in line and took our seats below deck. Since the sun was now out, so was the irrepressible heat, luckily the boat lurched forward and a breeze came through the window. Afternoon while I decided to go above deck to check out the surroundings ( and I was feeling a bit seasick in the open ocean). Climbing to the top of the stairs I take in the panoramic view of blue and in the distance I see the shadowy shape of an island, Koh Tao.
What’s the capital of Thailand?
Bangkok, ofter referred to as the, “city of angels”, is an assault on the senses, the heat, sights, smells and city noise all come together at once to overwhelm even the most experienced urbanite. Home to officially 8 million people, its actual population in closer to 14 million. Venturing out into the streets my first day at 9am I was immediately hit by the hellish climate. Sweaty forehead, check, shirt stuck to my back, check, swampy undercarriage, that’s a big 10-4, all within 30 second of leaving the air conditioned sanctuary of my hotel. The local Thai people are honey badgers when it comes to the temperature, they just don’t give a bleep. Almost all Thais I see are wearing jeans and many are wearing light jackets too, and often I see construction workers wearing full head coverings for god knows what reason other than masochism. After a while i just get used to the constant state of moistness and I soldier on. My focus then shifts to the olfactory. Food stalls and carts are everywhere serving fresh fruit, grilled meats, and plastic bags of soup all for around 20 baht (less than a dollar). The smells would be wonderful except you can’t go 5 steps without the stench of garbage and sewage mingling with the food smell to ruin the experience. I realize I am falling into a state of sensory overload so I switch my focus to finding some transportation in order to do some sightseeing. Enter the tuk-tuk.
There are a myriad of ways to get around in Bangkok, but the most traditional is the tuk-tuk: a colorful, 3 wheeled converted motorcycle much like a mechanized version of the pedicabs I am fond of in Charleston. Since tuk-tuks are mainly for tourists, most drivers are notorious for scamming. My driver, let’s just call him Gary, seemed honest enough and I bargained with him to show me around the local temples in Silom for an hour at 200 baht. The fist stop was the temple of Wat Traimit and it’s giant Golden Buddha.
I walk up 3 flights of steep stairs and then am required to take off my shoes in order to step into the worship area that houses the golden god. The golden Buddha is about 10 ft tall and weighs in at around 5 tons.
After I walk back down and find Gary, he takes me to a few more temples that are more local and less touristy. Most of the temples are also schools and Gary and I chat for a bit (in broken English) about the differences and similarities in American and Thai education. After my hour long tour is up, Gary says he knows some acquaintances that would give me a boat cruise up the river to see the famous Wat Arun temple. Gary proceeds to take me down some sketchy alleyways and dumps me in a less than reputable dock area where I negotiate a price for a longboat ride up the Chao Phraya river that runs centrally through Bangkok, much like the Thames in London or Siene in Paris. The boats, called long-tail boats, are obviously long thin wooden contraptions with huge V8 engines that run a tiny propeller on a 20 foot pole. Here’s what it looks like cruising at top speed up the Chao Phraya river:
I finally arrive at Wat Arun, also know as the “temple of the dawn”, one of the oldest and most sacred temples in Thailand. Angor Wat is located on the river amidst huge gardens and surrounded by other smaller temples and shrines, it is covered in thousands of pieces of Chinese porcelain. There are orange robed monks bustling about and of course there are food vendors hawking their wares like everywhere else. Like most temples, Angor Wat is also a school for children and a functioning education and worship center for many Buddhist monks.
After touring the grounds for a while I make my way back to the dock and get a ride home. I am drenched in sweat and famished, so my next quest is for sustenance and air conditioning. Rest assured that my next post will be about some Thai eats as well as another follow up post on some more sightseeing around Bangkok.
27 Hours of Travel
While most of you were sound asleep last night, I was time traveling. Out the ocular window to my left a hazy orange sun practically stayed stationary for for 15 hours as I passed over the northern hemisphere. To say that it was a long day is a serious understatement, I squeezed about 36 hours out of April 14th, but the journey was well worth the destination as I can now tell you about it from the comforts of a downtown Bangkok hotel, robe, slippers and hot Thai coffee included.
The 14th started out smashingly, enjoying a final breakfast in my Charleston kitchen, sipping French pressed coffee and running through the countless mental lists of things I am supposed to remember and things not to forget. Even though I woke with plenty of time to make my 12:15pm flight I was inevitably running a little late, as you may know it is habitual with members of my family. Maybe it’s genetic but I don’t know whether to blame or thank my parents for installing the art of lateness in me. On the one hand, the habit has put me into some stressful situations, but on the other it has given me a calmness of mind in situations when I find myself behind the clock. Regardless, my trusty roommate Nick got me to Charleston International on time and I was whisked away to my first connection, Chicago.
Upon arrival in Chicago I promptly ran into my first snafu of the trip. When checking into my flight with Cathay Pacific Airlines, I was asked to produce a returning flight ticket, but an aspiring vagabonder such as myself had no such thing. I knew full well that I may be asked to show a return ticket, but all the material I had read suggested that only a SMALL percentage of travelers is ever asked to show this to the customs officers, let alone the airline attendant at the check-in counter. I guess I just wasn’t lucky enough, that or the travel blogs are full of outdated bull-ish. Not wanting to end my trip only 3 hours in, I proceeded to use my iPhone to book a (fully refundable) departing flight from Bangkok to Hong Kong while standing at the counter. I showed the nice lady my confirmation email and was summarily whisked though security to board my marathon transcontinental flight.
Despite getting off to a rough start with Cathay Pacific, they quickly made up for any check-in shortcomings. The plane was huge, complete with personal tvs showing unlimited movies, tv shows and video games. I was severed two excellent meals (as excellent as airplane meals could be) complete with Haagen Das ice cream and the attendants were so easy on the eyes as to suspect a hiring bias. Two books and 4 movies later I was landing in glittery Hong Kong.
In Hong Kong my two hour layover turned into 5 hours due to some heinous thunderstorms, but eventually the final leg of my journey was underway and I was treated to yet another full meal on just a 3 hour flight, which leads me to beg: US based airlines, WTF??
Finally touching down in Bangkok at 2am local time, I deplaned and immediate noticed that the heat was palpable, that’s right, even at night I could taste the intensity of this climate. Customs was a breeze (no mention of a returning flight) and I exchanged 200 USD for approximately 6000 Thai Bhat. I whistled for a cab and when it came near, the license plate said FRESH and it had dice on the mirror…no wait, im not Will Smith and this is Bangkok, it was a hot pink Japanese car with the driver on the right side. The cab first took me to the wrong hotel but I eventually pulled up to the Pullman Bangkok G at about 3am. I walked in, checked in and passed out.
Today I wake up and write this post as I try and adjust to the jet lag. Hopefully I will find my way out onto the streets and get my bearings, but from my hotel room window the city looks like a maddeningly endless landscape of skyscrapers and burning hot asphalt.
