Advanced Diving

After the Open Water Diver certification, the second stage for most is the Advanced Diver course. Which sharpens your skills and introduces you to some new diving situations, after completion you are allowed to dive anywhere in the world up to 30 meters. The Advanced course is a series of 5 dives over 2 days with zero time spent in the classroom, just diving and taking your skills to the next level, its also cheaper and you typically get a discount if diving with the same school as your previous certification. For me it was a 10% discount with Big Blue, 3 more nights of free accommodation and a free shirt. Sweetness.
With the Advanced course you are required to include an advanced buoyancy test, a deep dive to 30 meters and a navigation test, but the other 2 dives are up to you. My Advanced course class was simply me and two others, Dave and Wendy. So again I had the chance to partner up with the instructor, Luke, and get one-on-one guidance from a dive master! We chose our 2 elective dives to be a night dive and a fish ID dive. You can also choose an underwater photography dive but this comes with the cost of renting the underwater camera, 1,200 bht, I had my GoPro so I was all set.
We started at 10am with a quick briefing by Luke and a rundown on the dives we had selected. That afternoon we set sail for a series of 3 dives starting with our advanced buoyancy test, requiring us to do a series of maneuvers and floats, in order to test our ability to stay controlled and avoid damaging coral reefs. Part of the buoyancy test was to swim though a plastic square in a number of ways, even upside down and a backwards loop through it.

20120612-221848.jpg

20120612-221857.jpg

20120612-221910.jpg

After passing our buoyancy tests we were free to roam Liem Thieam bay to take up the rest of our 51 minute dive time. The only other skill test was for me to lead the team on our ascent to the surface. A proper ascent requires that we ascend slower than the bubbles coming out of our rebreather and that we take a 3 minute safety stop at 5 meters from the surface in order for any extra gas to escape our bloodstream. I then inflate the, “safety sausage”, to signal our location to anyone above sea level, and finally proceed to break the surface.
Our second dive was our navigation test, so we were each outfitted with a dive computer and dive compass, divers bling….

20120612-222000.jpg

Luckily I did get my orienteering merit badge as a boy scout, so this test was an easy one. Just like in scouts, except instead of in the woods, I was underwater using the bearings on a compass and visual landmarks to navigate myself around the bay without Luke there to guide me. Wendy, Dave and I took turns taking the lead and goofing off since our instructor was not around on this dive.

20120612-222605.jpg

20120612-222615.jpg

20120612-222656.jpg

The last dive of the day took place around 7pm and was to be our much anticipated Night Dive. The sun had set but there was still enough dusk light to get our equipment rigged and take the plunge into the water with flashlights in hand. As we descended, the fading light combined with the darkness of the water acted quickly to pitch us into total darkness. It was like being in space, floating in darkness, listening to yourself breath though a regulator and seeing only the pillars of light cast by the flashlights of other divers. I stayed close behind Luke, for fear of crashing into a sea urchin or some abrasive coral. In the darkness our torches hit upon many a large Barracuda during their evening dinner hunting. We even happened upon a ray and a hawksbill turtle sleeping under a rock. The coolest thing was that when near the huge barracuda, we could spotlight a smaller fish with our light and the barracuda would have the perfect opportunity to attack the exposed fish.
After about 45 minutes our heads were breakng the surface and we were climbing back into the boat, exhausted but exhilarated by the dive. After getting back on dry land around 9pm and considering our next dive would be at 6:30am the next morning, I fully collapsed into bed to recuperate.

20120613-134832.jpg

20120613-134845.jpg

The next morning was an early one and a blustery one. Our first dive of the day was to be our “deep dive”, wherein we would be taken to maximum depth of 30 meters and tested for any signs of Nitrogen Narcosis, commonly known as being “narced”. The effects of Nitrogen Narcosis are akin to being very drunk and are caused by the amount of nitrogen in the bloodstream at such deep depth. Symptoms can include drowsiness, disorientation and hallucinations. To test ourselves we went through a number of mental skills once situated at 30 meters deep, such as writing our names backwards and adding to 10. We all 3 passed without incident, but I admit I was a little disappointed I didn’t feel anything. I’ve heard stories of grown men chasing down Grouper to try and give them air and women seeing diamond necklaces in the sand while under the influence of Nitrogen Narcosis.
The last dive of the day, and of the entire Advanced course, was practically a fun dive, but we were given flash cards and pokers so that we could pass it off as our Fish ID Dive. I spent most of the dive taking pictures and videos with my camera of the angelfish, coral and hawksbill sea turtle we came across.

20120613-135012.jpg

20120613-135024.jpg

20120613-135048.jpg

20120613-135100.jpg

20120613-135110.jpg

After the final dive we were taken back to Big Blue, properly logged our dive books and were given the card credentials of Advanced Adventure Divers. The next step, should I choose to take it, would be to become a Rescue Diver or committ fully to the 6 week program of DMT in order to become a dive master and then dive instructor so that I could then work for a place like Big Blue. Many a vacationer have come to Koh Tao for a week and ended up staying a year or more to become a certified instructor and dive master.

Last but not least, you know I couldn’t help putting a video montage together:

Sealab 2012

Koh Tao is a small island in the gulf of Thailand that is world famous for its diving. Calm, clear water, plenty of coral reefs, and sea life that include turtles, rays, whale sharks and a colorful array of fish. These natural wonders combined with the ridiculously low cost of diving make it one of the most thriving diving communities in the world, qualifying over 2% of all the worlds DMTs (dive master in training). So it’s no wonder that I decided to make a return rendezvous with this island when I decided to gain some experience as a diver myself.
My pre-existing diving experience came in the form of a Cozumel, Mexico resort about 15 years ago. The, “dive instructors”, at the resort simply handed me the full equipment, showed me how to put it on and promptly escorted me to the ocean and told me to walk in and start breathing underwater. I also took part in what is called “Snuba-diving” at one point during a family vacation to Hawaii about 10 years ago, which simply amounted to being the joke of the holiday. Consensus: Mexican resorts are irresponsible and Snuba is a joke not worth telling. Coming to Koh Tao and immersing myself in the diving community that exists there truly showed me how serious a sport diving really is.
The first step for any aspiring diver is their Open Water Diver certification, which qualifies a person to dive anywhere in the world up to 18 meters deep with the proper equipment and an experienced instructor. Of the multitude of diving outfits in Koh Tao, I chose Big Blue Diving for my training. Big Blue came highly recommended by my friends and is one of the larger diving schools on the island with a typical class size of 10 students. One might also choose to go with Ban’s Dive school, one of the largest in the world or perhaps a smaller outfit with smaller class sizes and more personal attention such as Rocktopus Diving school. It all depends on the experience you want and the level of personal attention you feel you need.

20120612-212449.jpg

20120612-212441.jpg

My Open Water Diver course was to take place over the span of 4 days and I was offered free, “dorm room”, accommodations at Big Blue as long as I was enrolled. I enrolled the day I arrived on the island and I was to start class at 5pm. After checking out the dorm room accommodations I was satisfied with the free price and lukewarm shower so I proceeded to claim a top-bunk and have a meet-n-greet with my fellow bunk mates, all of which were also divers of varying levels and solo travelers like myself.

20120612-212732.jpg

20120612-212726.jpg

The, front and center, dorms also included the entertainment of all the local pet dogs in the area. To explain; Koh Tao has an abundance of canines, which are readily taken care of by the locals and semi-permanent dive instructors of the island. All the dogs have their own personalities and territories, Big Blue claiming about 4 different pups, most notably the kitchen dog named Sausage, seen here:

20120612-151733.jpg

20120612-212924.jpg

The first day was a classroom setting where myself and a group of 10 others learned the basics of equipment, diving physics and sea life, such as the definition of SCUBA (self contained underwater breathing apparatus) and the hazards of improper ascent and descent (the Bends and lung over-expansion). After class we were provided with textbooks and homework, sent home with the promise of actually being under water the next day.
Day two included a bit more classroom activity, but in the afternoon we attempted out first underwater excursion…in a pool. We were fitted for all the equipment (BC, regulator, tank, mask and fins) and were shown how to properly assemble and wear the get-up. We then proceeded to break up into groups and practice the skills we learned in the classroom. My group included a German couple, an Icelandic couple (I still don’t believe their language is real), and myself. I got to partner with the instructor, Guy, from the UK. We all passed the drills smashingly and were all ready for the next day of actual ocean diving.

20120612-151541.jpg

Before we could step into the ocean however, we had to take our Final Exam. The Final Exam consisted of 50 multiple choice questions regarding all the skills we were force fed over the previous two days. I finished first, very confident that I got 100% (offered the reward of a free beer), only to find out I missed 5 questions. Oh well, I still passed and I think that most of the questions I missed were debatable, seems about par for the course with my academic career. In fact, everyone in the class passed, but no one with 100%, but it didn’t matter since we were all juiced for our first open water dives that afternoon. The only real setback was that my previous instructor, Guy, had gotten himself badly electrocuted right before class by trying to use a defunct electric socket. Apparently plugging your laptop into the wall is more dangerous than diving. After a few hours he was OK, but not in any condition to dive, so I was assigned a new instructor and dive buddy, Luke, also from the UK…where else.
Dives 1 and 2 took place at 12:30pm the same day as the final exam. We were fitted for our BC, fins and mask and taken by long-tail boat out to the larger Dive Boats situated in the bay. After a quick 30 min boat ride to peaceful Mango Bay on the other side of the island, we were anchored and gathered downstairs for assembling our gear and getting in the water.

20120612-152735.jpg

20120612-152743.jpg

A little flumbly with the gear and a few hiccups with the assembly, but after our first, “giant stride” entry, we were in the water and descending (we would later learn the “dead Mexican” and “James Bond” entry styles). I was a bit nervous at first, but once my ears started equalizing normally and I realized the beauty around me I was too excited to be scared. Once we reached the bottom around 11 meters deep, we proceeded to get comfortable swimming and then practice a few of the emergency drills we learned in the pool the previous day such as; filling and clearing your mask of water, removing your mask, removing your rebreather and using your secondary rebreather, amongst others. Removing the mask is definitely the hardest one for me, the salt water still burns your eyes and it takes more focus than you think to try and breath only through your mouth without pinching your nose underwater. The total dive lasting about 45 minutes, the longest I’ve ever been underwater for sure, unless you count that old submarine ride at Disney World.
Dive number two took place at Japanese Gardens, a nice outcrop of coral where we once again practiced some skills and worked on our buoyancy and kicking techniques. After skills were complete to Luke’s satisfaction, we were free to explore a bit and take in the scenery. We encountered hoards of Yellowstripe Scad, colorful Bannerfish, tiny Perian Carpet Flatworms and the territorial Titan Triggerfish.

20120612-214706.jpg

20120612-214738.jpg

20120612-214816.jpg

The next and final day if diving in the Open Water certification course took place promptly at 6:30am. So the usual Koh Tao nightlife spots of Lotus and Fishbowl we’re without my presence for at least one night. Bleary eyed but excited I showed up at the equipment shack to claim my gear and hop on the long tail boat to be ferried out to the dive boat. The mornings two dives would be at Liem Thieam Bay and Red Rock, two great spots for seeing aquatic life and staying above our depth limit of 18 meters. The skill tests were over for the most part and this final day was about just having fun and enjoying diving. They even send along a film crew with you on the final day in order to produce a video of your group at the end of the day (in hopes that you will buy it). The final 2 dives did not disappoint, I felt much more comfortable and confident in my abilities and got to see a pair of white-eye Moray Eels, Jenkins Stingray, Orange Spine Unicorn fish, Malabar Grouper, Glass Shrimps, Sixbar Angelfish and a Black Blotched Porcupine fish. There was also a fair amount of goofing off for the cameras.

20120612-215722.jpg

The diving wrapped up around noon and once our dive books were properly logged I was ready for a nap. Later that evening we were presented with our official “Open Water Diver” certification cards and we all sat down at the Big Blue bar for a beer and the premier of the video that was made for our graduating class. As the video says: Congratulations, Open Water Diver. Next up, the Advanced Diver certification.

Happy Turtle

Koh Tao, which in translates in English to Turtle Island is so named because of the many sea turtles that come to lay their eggs on the white sand beaches here. Located in the gulf of Thailand, the water is extremely calm and while I am disappointed there are no waves to surf the upside is that this island offers some of the best diving and snorkeling on the planet. Most of the tourists here are Brits and Aussies, Americans are definitely few and far between. It’s strange being the minority but I am really enjoying the experience and the attention that comes with being a novelty. The local Thai islanders are extremely laid back and friendly, most speak decent broken English and they are patient enough to even allow you to express yourself through hand gestures and charades when the language barrier proves too tricky. I wanted to share a few of my experiences in Koh Tao so far in order to give you a taste of the island lifestyle.

First, my living situation. Accommodations in Koh Tao are relatively basic, bungalows, community housing, beach huts or just a hammock between two coconut trees. The going rate for a room with air-con and a lukewarm shower is about 1000 Bhat per night (about $33) but the rooms are definitely a far cry from my posh hotel in Bangkok. Since I had awesome buds with “connections” here I was able to get a scooter and a “luxury” place to stay my first night.

20120504-001743.jpg

The next thing you should do if you are in Koh Tao is to get a traditional Thai massage. Unlike the massages I’ve had in the past, the Thai massage is a bit less formal but a lot more functional. It combines both deep tissue, full body stretching and copious amounts of Tiger Balm (an intense Asian version of IcyHot). Instead of your own private room, all the massages take place on the floor, alongside other customers. You are given a pair of linen Capri pants to wear and are instructed to lie down on one of the many pallets on the floor. The therapist then proceeds to go to work on you. They literally climb all over you in order to get the best positioning for the required massage or stretch. They use their hands, feet and elbows to work out knots and pop your joints in ways you wouldn’t think possible. At one point you are even instructed to place your head in their lap so they can massage your scalp, face and neck. There is also a bit of chiropractic work involved as they twist your torso or walk up and down your back until it makes a sound like jiffy-pop. It is really a great massage and a cool experience and at a price of 300 Bhat per hour ($10), I can honestly say its the best I’ve ever had and I don’t think any other massages will live up to it. Oh, and I can squelch any rumors about “happy endings”, these beefy farmers daughters are consummate professionals.

Then of course are the picturesque beaches and rocky outcrops that make up the landscape. Below are a few pics from the southern tip of the island, including a view of Shark Island, just one of many secluded dive spots:

20120504-001913.jpg

20120504-001936.jpg

20120504-001956.jpg

As far a food goes, I am liking it better than Bangkok. Fresh fruit abounds and there are hundreds of restaurants serving up a myriad of cuisines. Due to all the expats on the island you not only have great Thai food but also lasagna made by Italians, sushi made by Japanese, curry and lassies made by Indians and much more. I’ve really enjoyed the Thai omlettes, they are not your typical breakfast omelette as these are usually lunch or dinner fare, and they usually contain minced chicken or pork with veggies, rice and the traditional thai condiments:

20120504-002155.jpg

For beverages I won’t let a day go by without some sort of shake, my personal recommendation is the coconut or the mango, there is no sugar or syrups added and I have never tasted anything fresher. You can also opt for a fresh young coconut, straight out of the nut and extremely hydrating after those long nights out.

When the sun sets and the heat falls back a free degrees the island really comes alive. I was lucky enough to attend a Muay Thai boxing match and it was quite the experience to say the least. Makeshift bleachers, smokey atmosphere and traditional Thai and Burmese music. These guys may be small in stature, but even the 12 year olds could wipe the floor with me. Here is a video of the 150lbs weight class:

Once the fights are over it’s time to head out to the beach bars. Half sand, all open air and all pumping the latest Asian top 40 hits. Almost all the bars have “fire dancers” which are Thais or Burmese that swing balls of fire or swords of fire in mezmerizing fashion. Most of the fire dancers are just local guys doing it for fun and they will gladly give drunk tourists it he opportunity to try it out themselves. They wear their street clothes and mingle in and out of the bar goers. There is an obvious safety risk, but hey, this is Thailand where common sense rules and safety regulations are not heard of and surely there are no statistics kept on the number of severe kerosene burns. Here are some videos of a few guys from the Fish Bowl bar (yes, one is smoking a cigarette and the other is wearing a Cincinnati Reds cap):

The alcoholic drink of choice at all Thai beaches are called “buckets”, they are literally plastic buckets typically filled with Thai rum called Sangsum, Asian red bull and sprite. They are meant to be shared so you are given about 3-5 straws, all for the price of 200 bht ($7).

Good times abound and I will be sad to leave this island paradise tomorrow as we head to Koh Panyang for the infamous full moon party. however I have promised many locals (over a few buckets) that I would be making It back here before my journeys are over. I also have one more post in mind regarding Koh Tao and the treacherous roads filled with scooters, so keep an eye out for that one soon. In the immortal words of Ron Burgundy, “until next time, you stay classy, Planet Earth”.